“Sometimes wrong directions will put you in the right place.” Me
You know it’s going to be a good day when you set off on a day trip and the first thing you see when you hop in the metro in Barcelona is……ta da…A DOG! This little guy looked like a stuffed toy. So cute!
I set my sights on Montserrat for a half-day trip. Montserrat is a sacred mountain about two hours by train from Barcelona. Its name means “Serrated Mountain” because of its jagged rock formation. It is home to the Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey, a Benedictine monastery that houses one of the Black Madonna statues, the Virgin of Montserrat.
Unfortunately, Google Maps guided me to get off the train one station past the correct stop for the funicular/gondola/cable car (call it what you wish) that takes visitors to the top. Apparently, Google thought I should hike to the top. No, thank you, not today. It was only when I was walking into the nearby town and crossing a bridge that I noticed a yellow arrow and wondered if this path was another Camino route!
Shortly after I saw the first arrow, I quickly saw a second one, and this confirmed it. I was definitely walking on a Camino path. After a quick Google search, I learned that Montserrat is part of the Camino Catalan.
As I walked across the bridge, I quickly realized I was on the wrong path. In the distance, I could see the cable cars (in the opposite direction of the photo above), but I figured I should make the most of this misguided opportunity and continued to walk into town. Funny enough, although it was about 11 am, nothing was open but a couple of little cafes. I had an espresso before walking back to the train station to ride the one stop back to where the cable cars were located. I thought about walking the distance, but it would have taken about an hour or so, and I wanted to save time. Thankfully, the nice guy working at the train station listened to my embarrassing mistake and let me back on the train without buying another ticket. He said it happens all the time. So if you visit, don’t make the same mistake I did-unless you want to walk the Camino to the top!
The views from the cable cars are stunning and much better than any photo I could take. The mountains and the river are absolutely breathtaking. I didn’t want the gondola ride to end.
Once I was at the top, the first thing I noticed besides the incredible view was this sign explaining the Caminos in the area.
After enjoying the views and reading about the Camino, I crossed the street to find a sidewalk market. There is a history behind this market. It was started in the mid-19th century by a group of rural farmer women known as the matonaires. They would climb the mountain every morning to sell their harvest of fruits, vegetables, along with poultry, rabbits, and the famous Mató cheese to visitors of the Abbey. The cheese is still made locally and the traditional way, from sheep or goat’s milk, and is unsalted. It is typically served as dessert with honey and has a similar consistency to ricotta cheese.
After a little cheese taste testing – it was delicious by the way – I headed toward the Monastery and hiked the stairs to take a tour of the church to see the Virgin of Montserrat.
An audio guide is included with the ticket, which is a nice feature. Thankfully, it wasn’t too crowded the day I went, but there was a steady stream of people in line to see the Madonna. The tour guides you along the right side of the church and down a long hallway filled with stained glass windows and beautiful art on the walls. After a somewhat long walk to the front of the church, make a left up a flight of stairs, and at the top is where you begin to see a side view of the statue. The gold tiles and silver metal work adorning the wall are mesmerizing and almost blindingly beautiful. Everyone was patiently waiting their turn so people could say a prayer or have their photo taken with the statue.
On a side note: Since we have a new Pope – Pope Leo XIV, I found in my research that Pope Leo XIII granted the image a canonical coronation on September 11, 1881.
The statue is encased in glass except for her hand, which is holding a round-shaped object – I think at one time it was a globe but most of the details have worn off from all the visitors touching it.
After I had my moment with the statue, I turned around to find another incredible view of the church from behind the altar.
To exit the area, a guard pointed to another staircase on the opposite side of the statue to descend to the main level. The next stop on the tour was a beautiful circular-shaped chapel (which made it difficult to photograph) filled with a prism of lights around the room, cast from the stained glass windows. I have to say, it was an extremely peaceful little corner of the world. Even though it was filled with people, the vibe was very calming. I could have sat there all day.
On the way out of the church, the path leads through an area surrounded by the mountain on one side and the church on the other, but it is open air and filled with candles. It feels like a sacred grotto.
The final stop on the tour was in a courtyard just inside the entrance. I was told the windows and balconies are for the offices of the monastery.
The one thing I did not buy with my tour was the ticket for the Montserrat Boys Choir – unfortunately, the time didn’t work with my visit. It is a choir made up of 50 altar boys, ages 9-14, who sing soprano and alto. The choir dates back to the mid-14th Century and is one of the oldest boys choirs in Europe.
Once the tour was completed, I walked through the gift shop (like exiting Disneyland) and had another cup of espresso at the café on the main street before my final ride down on the gondola. I was told there is a hotel and an Albergue for pilgrims who hike the Catalán Camino for people who wish to stay overnight. I might do that on another visit. It was such a lovely place it would be nice to stay a little longer.
If you visit Barcelona and would like an enjoyable day trip outside of the city, I highly recommend Montserrat!
Good Things List
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Wrong directions leading to new adventures
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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A mailbox in the shape of a lion…or maybe a bear. You decide.
