*These events took place in October 2025.
*This post is very long, so if it is cut off, be sure to click “View Entire Message” at the end.
“You’ll be back. Da da da da daaa.” King George in the musical Hamilton
Hello from England! 🏴
This is my first visit to England, one of the countries of my ancestors – I’m a mutt – checking off #60 on my ever-growing list of places I dream of exploring and learning more about.
I had high hopes of getting my passport stamped (a rare thrill these days in the digital age), and I was told it could be done…but either I misunderstood the border agent (very possible), or he gave me bad intel.
No stamp.
But they let me in, so I guess I’ll take it.
The purpose of my visit? To see my sweet pea of a friend, who I argue with like a brother, James, experience where he’s from (Leicester – pronounced Lester), and meet his mom…or mum as they say in England.
Meet Ros.
Ros is James’ adorable, kind, humble, very intelligent, and extremely sporty mother. She is my kind of person. She plays golf with her friends several times a week – even in the rain and cold – and, when she was younger, played a sport for the national team of England.
I would love to hike a Camino with her someday. I think she would outpace me, though – I’d have to run to keep up.
She welcomed me with open arms, as if it were a reunion and not a first-time encounter. She’s been a loyal reader of the blog ever since James and I met in Patagonia in 2024, so she knew a bit more about me than I did about her, but we leveled that playing field over the course of my visit. Ros is absolutely lovely and truly made me feel welcomed and at home during my trip.
After dropping my bag and meeting Ros, we headed straight out to get dinner – fish and chips at George Street Fish and Chips. My first meal in England – a classic and delicious.
We ordered cod (notice the price increase – whoa, mama), mushy peas, and chips (aka fries).
The fish was incredible – super fresh with a perfectly crispy batter that somehow wasn’t greasy. And the mushy peas? First time trying them…and I liked them. A lot. Simple, a little sweet, very comforting. Here is a recipe I found for mushy peas, should you like to make your own.
Also, fish and chips are not complete without malt vinegar. Apparently, Sarson’s is the brand of choice here.
The next morning, after my shower, I heard rumblings of James in the hallway. He yawned and then politely said, “Good morning, Emily,” from the other side of the door.
“Good morning, James.”
I opened the door, and James was standing in his pajamas and full-on bedhead. He smiled and said in his proper British accent, “Right, I’m going to go make us breakfast. Would you like some beans?”
“Yes, of course, isn’t that every woman’s dream? To have beans first thing in the morning?”
I’m still not entirely convinced about starting the day with foods that encourage musical side effects, but when in England, you commit to the experience. Let’s do it…
Honest feedback. Beans on toast were good. Toast with butter, savory beans with a hint of sweetness – somehow it works. The textures, the flavors, the whole thing. Don’t knock it until you try it.
British cuisine gets a bad reputation, but so far? Two meals in, and I’m pleasantly surprised. Simple, yes – but comforting (perfect for the weather), flavorful, and done well. It’s less about flash and more about substance.
We may have been misled. Or maybe they just tell everyone it’s shit so they won’t visit. I did read that locals sometimes give horrible ratings and reviews to their favorite restaurants to keep the tourists at bay. Brilliant.
…….
The main tourist attraction in Leicester revolves around Richard III…and a parking lot.
If you don’t know his story (I barely did before my visit), here’s the quick summary from a Google search. I’m not a historian or even close to qualified to tell his story with all its twists and turns and family drama – but you should know a little bit about him and his death for the purpose of this blog.
The life of Richard III is one of the most dramatic and debated stories in English history—a rise to power shaped by war, family conflict, and lasting controversy.
Richard was born in 1452 into the powerful House of York during the Wars of the Roses, a series of battles for control of the English throne. His older brother became king as Edward IV, and Richard grew up as a loyal supporter, gaining a reputation as a capable soldier and administrator in the north of England.
His life took a dramatic turn in 1483 when Edward IV died. The throne was meant to pass to Edward’s young son, Edward V. However, Richard was named Lord Protector and soon declared the children illegitimate, taking the crown for himself as Richard III. The young princes—Edward V and his brother—were placed in the Tower of London and then disappeared, becoming known as the Princes in the Tower disappearance. Their fate remains one of history’s greatest mysteries and has heavily shaped Richard’s reputation.
As king, Richard introduced some legal reforms and was known for efforts to make justice more accessible, but his reign was short and troubled by rebellion. In 1485, he faced the forces of Henry Tudor at the Battle of Bosworth Field. Richard was killed in battle, becoming the last English king to die on the battlefield. His death marked the end of the Wars of the Roses and the beginning of the Tudor dynasty.
After his death, Richard’s body was buried in Greyfriars Church in Leicester. Over time, the location was lost—until 2012, when his remains were famously rediscovered beneath a car park, sparking renewed debate about his life and legacy.
Today, Richard III remains a complex figure: seen by some as a villain who seized power and possibly murdered his nephews, and by others as a misunderstood ruler whose story was shaped by his enemies, especially in the works of William Shakespeare.
After visiting the museum, I tend to think that he was a little misunderstood. The pen is mightier than the sword, as they say. If you visit, you will have to let me know your thoughts on the matter.
The visitor center does an excellent job walking you through “the big dig,” complete with timelines, artifacts, and a glass-floored view of the excavation site itself.
It’s one thing to read history – it’s another to stand directly over it.
One of the more interesting facts (to me) about the resurrection of his body is that he was discovered by a woman named Philippa Langley, and her gut instincts (a massive amount of research led her there, but…).
She was right.
On the first excavation attempt, they found him.
Philippa is a writer, producer, and amateur historian, but it was her intuition that led her on this big journey to find King Richard. Many people were skeptical of her “big idea,” but she persisted and miraculously discovered the body on the first scoop with the backhoe. Impressive. Always trust your gut, people.
Here is an excerpt from an interview.
In May 2004, she visited various sites in Leicester associated with Richard III, including the three car parks identified in 1975 as possible burial locations. Langley entered the Social Services car park, and at the northern end felt a “strange sensation” come over her, saying, “I knew in my innermost being that Richard’s body lay there”. In 2005, on completing her first draft (of her screenplay about Richard), she returned to the car park and experienced the same feeling; when she looked down, someone had painted a reserved “R” over the space; she recounted, “it told me all I needed to know.”
She has a fascinating story and has written several books, screenplays, and television series about Richard III. You can read more about her and her work on her website.
As if things couldn’t get more immersive, we stumbled into a live demonstration of medieval weapons. A few times a month, one of the workers who is really into swords and sword fighting brings in his collection and educates the visitors on the weapons used during these century-old battles. I loved his passion…and his outfit.
James and I have decided to settle all our disagreements from now on via medieval sword fighting. I don’t know who had more fun, me or James, pretending to kill the other.
After our “battle,” where James declared himself the winner, we walked over to Leicester Cathedral, where Richard III was reburied in 2015, hopefully in what will remain his eternal resting place.
Inside, it feels more like a community center than a church. Most of the pews have been removed to make space for tables and chairs in the main area. But the area near the burial site still holds its original sense of reverence.
Strange to think someone can go from king…to lost…to found again centuries later, under a car park no less, to being buried with honors in a cathedral.
Life…and death…are strange.
Afterwards, we took a little stroll through the center of town to see the cute little streets with the British flag (and Christmas decorations) on display and the clock tower. It was a cool, cloudy day, but thankfully no rain. A minor miracle in England.
We saw a cop with one of those iconic hats (I’m sure they have a more appropriate name), so I had to get a photo.
I begged him to arrest me, but sadly, he said, “No.”
He didn’t think I’d do well in jail.
Fair assessment.
We topped off the evening with a proper traditional English meal – steak, chips, peas, salad, and wine at a cozy pub – The Crown Inn in Gilmorton.
…and of course, a British meal is not complete without some sticky toffee pudding. It tasted much better than it looked…I promise.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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Beautiful view from my room.
We taught Ros how to play Machiavelli. Don’t let her fool you…she is a shark at the card table. She won the first game…and then a couple more.
It is common in England to use rubber hot water bottles (game changer) with cute little covers to warm the bed so it’s toasty when you climb in. This was one of James’ personal favorites, but they kindly gave it to me to take home as a souvenir. I was genuinely touched. The fox is the symbol of the town of Leicester. 🦊
A sign outside a restaurant in Leicester announced that they are making a BIG change to their menu…from British cuisine to Italian. Interesting…
King Charles has officially replaced Queen Elizabeth on the stamps, and they’re currently phasing out currency featuring the Queen in favor of the King as well.
Sending snail mail has gotten a bit pricing aggressive. It ain’t cheap to send a postcard to the US.
