“I’m still waiting to be grabbed out of the lost and found box.” – Erin Van Vuren
Another great but wild day! Wowza! Our room last night faced East so the sunrise woke us up. The view was beautiful and lovely to see first thing in the morning. We all have reached automatic pilot in our routines in the morning. So now it’s quick and pretty efficient. Until it’s not. More on that later. We, my Camino dad’s and me, had a cup of coffee and a piece of toast in the breakfast room, served by a lovely woman named Magda, and then we started walking. We ran into David and Elisa a few clicks down the road so we walked together for a just few steps before David took off (he is a super fast hiker) and Elisa stopped to take some photos.
The Camino is literally like playing leap frog.
We ran into David at a cafe in the next town and then Elisa caught back up. Then everyone took off again at their own pace only to be seen again at the next rest stop.
Honestly, this portion of the hike was nothing to write home about. It was inland and mainly on the road. We did walk through some pretty forest but nothing exceptional stands out except for two things. 1.) a dog walked 3 hours with us. I have no idea where home was for him but I have a feeling he does this often. 2.) there was a lovely little stop along the way at someone’s house. These Camino Angels have turned their garage into a pilgrim stop with fully stocked vending machines, microwave, working sink, lounge chairs, picnic tables, etc. We never saw the owners but we lounged in their backyard and enjoyed the snacks and a break. Why can’t the whole world be more kind and generous like this?
People, people, people, do I have a story for you. I had another first on the Camino today. And not in a good way but in a funny way. I have never, ever done this. Never. Here’s the story. We made it to our Albergue about 3pm after walking for about 7 hours. We checked in, I got my bed ready and laid down to rest. The knee was really barking at me today. Stephen showered first, then Larry was going to be next. We were chatting about laundry, etc. so I opened my bag and there it was…rather there it was not. My toiletry bag and another little cute cloth bag with Frida Kahlo’s face on it that my sister gave me for my birthday, were not in my backpack. My stomach dropped like it does on the first big downhill of a roller coaster ride.
Oh no.
My brain did a rewind like the replay machine they use in the TV truck for a sporting event. I literally saw myself walking backwards on the Camino. Back to the rest stops and cafe, through the woods, up and down the hills, back to the hostel on the beach and into the bathroom. I could see it in my mind. There were three sinks. I remember, I had brushed my teeth and put on my mascara (luxury item) at one sink but it didn’t have soap so I slid over to the other sink, turned around to dry my hands and walked out. Ugh. There on the third sink is where I left it.
I admitted my mistake aloud.
Larry said, “oh, I’m so sorry.”
I thought for a minute. I don’t really need anything in there. It’s all replaceable except I would be sad to lose the bag my sister gave me…and of course my fancy Lancôme mascara luxury item.
Next thought, oh this would be an epic adventure for the blog update. Plus for shits and grins to see if I could do it. Okay, I’m going for it. I’m up for a good challenge.
Me, “why are you sorry? That’s my stuff, I’m going back.”
Larry, “are you walking?”
Me, “hell no…I’m getting a taxi to run me there and back.”
He laughed.
I called the hostel, they did in fact have it. They told me to ask for Magda (the lovely lady from breakfast) when I arrived.
It’s now 4pm on a Sunday in Spain.
Ghost town.
I grabbed my wallet, phone and ran downstairs to ask the receptionist to call me a taxi. He says “no taxi.” I ask where the taxi stand is. He points around the corner.
I run (the adrenaline has made me completely forget my knee pain) to the taxi stand. Yep, nada, no one.
I spot one guy walking my way. I accosted him on the street and in my best Spanish “taxi?”
Him, “no, no.”
There is a phone near the taxi waiting area but there is no number listed.
I point and ask him about calling.
He dials the number on the phone to show me the digits. I dial the phone and give it to him while using my entire body to show him I need a taxi immediately.
Then internally I start to pray for the Camino Angels to show up. “Dear sweet, sweet, Camino Angels, please help me figure this one out so I have a fun story to tell and I can get all my stuff back including my luscious luxury item. Pretty please.” I may have even made the sign of the cross. I’m sure that helped seal the deal with this random stranger.
He says a bunch of words in Spanish…I’m nodding in agreement not knowing at all what I am agreeing to but I’m game for anything at this point. He asks me where I’m going.
Me, “La Isla.” And I use more body language to say it’s a return trip.
Him, [blank stare]
In reality it’s only 20 minutes each way and not a big deal to me (Midwesterners are very familiar with long car trips and this was a shorty) but his look tells me otherwise.
He continues to speak on the phone.
He hangs up and says, “Antonio will be here in 30 minutes” to get me.
A few minutes later, a car pulls up.
I point, “Antonio?”
Him, “no, mi papa.”
I make a gesture that I’ll pay him to take me there and back. They laugh…apparently, they don’t have time.
I say “gracias” and we all wave goodbye.
I run back to the hostel around the corner to grab a book, it’s going to be awhile.
I see Stephen. Apparently Larry has informed him of my plan. He hugs me like he’s sending his child off to fight in a war and says “ Emily (at least he got my name right) you can’t go. I won’t see you for like a week.”
Me, “Stephen, all my stuff, minus these two bags are here, I’ll be back in less than an hour.”
Stephen, “oh thank God.”
I mumble “barnacle” under my breath (he knows I’m teasing about this) and run back to the taxi stand. As I get there a car arrives, a Peugeot station wagon to be exact.
Some guy rolls down the window.
I said, “nombre?” (Name?)
He said, “Antonio”
Me, “perfecto” and I jumped in the car.
There is absolutely zero signage indicating that he is a taxi driver. I’m guessing he is the other random dude’s neighbor, relative, maybe a drinking buddy. I really don’t know and at this point, who cares, I’m committed to this adventure.
I pull up the hostel on my google maps. (Thank goodness for AT&T $10 a day international rate plan – whew! – otherwise this could be expensive. Can I get some advertising dollars, please?)
He looks at the map and in his Spanish accent, “eh, okay” and he takes off like a bat out of hell. He is rolling. We are doing 145km in a 120km. Breaking the law, I like this guy already. We are trying to speak but it’s “no comprehendo”. I use google translate once we are on the highway and don’t need the map. I explain I left a bag at the last hostel. He laughs again and says he understands. And maybe said I’m an idiot but I can’t confirm it.
We arrive at the hostel, I go in and ask for Magda. Apparently, I’m not pronouncing it correctly because the lady is just starring at me. She is not the same lady from the phone who spoke perfect English (thank you, Lord). So she gets the French chef from the restaurant who also doesn’t know much English or Spanish so now it’s getting interesting. I try to explain, I use Google translate. He gets a little bit of it and uses a walkie-talkie to radio Magda. Whew.
I’m pacing the lobby. Praying Magda shows up and the random guy Antonio doesn’t leave me. Otherwise, I’d have a whole other story to write and honestly, I don’t have the time or energy.
Magda walks into the lobby and screams with happiness. She recognized me from breakfast. We had a heartfelt moment together when I almost broke the toaster. She gives me a hug and she knows exactly why I’m there. She grabs my hand and leads me into some back room, opens a huge locker and inside it is filled with stuff left behind by pilgrims. Jackpot. She immediately pulls out my two little bags. I smile, and laugh and say “gracias” several times. We hug, she kisses me on both cheeks and leads me back to the lobby. She hugs me again and wishes me a “Buen Camino” as I walk out the door. “Adios!”
Antonio is smoking a cig in the parking lot.
He sees me and the bags and says “muy bueno”.
We both get in the car and he takes off again.
On the ride back, Dora texts to ask my location. I explain my idiot move. She asks about our hostel and I send the Google map location (thanks again AT&T…can I get some free upgrades?). Apparently, she is still walking.
Antonio delivers me to the hostel. I ask him how much in Spanish.
“30€”
Perfect. This might be the most fun 30€ I’ve ever spent.
We take a photo together and he gives me a fist bump before he drives away.
I walk into the lobby of the current hostel only to receive a standing ovation from Stephen and Larry at exactly 5:00pm. I’ve accomplished all of this in an hour….in SPAIN and I don’t speak Spanish! I tell them my wild tale and we all high-five…and then I pat myself on the back, because dang it, that was amazing!
I turn around and Dora walked in the door. More clapping and a big hug. It was great to see her again after a day apart.
It was a most excellent Camino adventure.
Camino – 8 (one point for the lesson – double check your bag)
Em – 7.5 (I’m giving myself 2 points for ingenuity and having an adventurous spirit)
I think I would be a pretty decent competitor on The Amazing Race.
Had another great visit with a donkey today.
It took me awhile but I finally realized who Eric from France reminds me of….Mel Brooks. He is always spouting off funny lines and doing tai chi as he walks.
Only one Pilgrim Powwow today.
I’m really mastering the 15-30 minute break time. I can find he best spots to put my feet up and relax.
Dora’s phone stresses me out. All the red bubbles!
I love being flower bombed. You’ll be walking along and all of a sudden it smells like you’re walking through a French perfume store. The roses, jasmine and whatever else grows around here just hits you in the face with a floral cloud. It’s wonderful.
Quote of the day: me, “nature is not my toilet.” When discussing that there were no cafes, which means no proper toilets, for most of the walk today.
Conversation of the day: Dora, “can you help me make a reservation over the phone in Spanish?” Me, “sure, I’ll trade you a reservation for use of the hairdryer.”
Prison rules.
Camino – 8
Em – 8 (half point for the creativity of this negotiation)
I’m playing to win this time.
La Isla – Villaviciosa – 21.5km
Goodnight and mucho, mucho love from Spain.
