Day 21 El Camino del Norte

Day 21 El Camino del Norte (photo 11)

Most important business first. Today is the birthday of my best gal pal in the world. Let’s all raise a glass to the person who probably knows me better than my shrink, Squint, Squintini, My Person, Jenny. She is truly the most loyal, compassionate, empathetic, nonjudgemental, honest, caring, consistent and supportive (despite all of my drama and antics) friend I could ask for. She is literally the best person I know. If you don’t have a Squint in your life, you better rush right out and get ya one….but you can’t have her because she’s mine! Happy birthday, Squint. It was so good to see your face and hear your voice. Miss you. 

*Returning to schedule programming. 

I surpassed the halfway mark today. I’ve walked 433k (269 miles). Loads of mixed emotions. A sense of accomplishment for making it this far, excitement for the next twists and turns down the road and the people I will meet and continue to walk with but a little sad that it’s gone by so quickly. Committed to staying in the moment and continuing to be grateful. that is my focus.

The day was absolutely glorious. I mean I don’t know how, but everyday we say, “this is the best day” but then the next day comes and it’s even better. The group from last night’s hostel had a lovely breakfast together. Pretty much everyone was a morning person. No grouchy folks at the table. It was Dora, Stephen, David (Netherlands), Gideon (Israel), Constantine and Lylou (France) and yours truly. We had an interesting discussion of what is traditional breakfast in each country. I love that France drinks their coffee out of a bowl. After we ate, David and Gideon washed the dishes that Dora and I used. We are both fiercely independent women so this caught both of us a little off guard. I’m not good at letting others help me but it was very kind of them. It was the true pilgrim spirit. I’ve been working on allowing myself to receive from others more, instead of always trying to give or manage the situation. This was a good trial run. 

Camino – 7 (I forgot to give a point for the peeing in the woods incident yesterday) 

Em – 5.5

After breakfast we all said goodbye to Elizabeth and also Constantine and Lylou. Constantine is staying one more day to help with a painting project at the hostel and to give Lylou a day of rest. I love that pup. She became my buddy during our stay last night. I hated to say goodbye but I think (finger crossed) we’ll see them down the road. 

We walked 6-7km before we made it to the next town. Along the way we met Eric from France. He has a little pull cart as well. Super nice guy and pretty funny. He talks to the trees, animals and wind and makes up words as we go along. I get you, Eric, I get you.

At the first break we ran into Larry from Tulsa, OK and he joined us for the remainder of the walk and is at our hostel tonight. David also popped up during the break. And another surprise walked by our table…PABLO! He’s back from visiting his family for the night. He said it was nice to have his own room and see his dog. Priorities. 

After the first break we walked along the coastline of the town. Have any of you been to mansion row, like The Breakers in Newport, RI? This was very similar but a little bit smaller homes. Absolutely stunning. 

We walked the beautiful coastline. Every view more beautiful than the next.

We stopped at a restaurant overlooking the beach. I had the most amazing salad. Larry and Stephen had burgers and fries. For a brief moment I forgot I was a pilgrim. It was so relaxing and enjoyable. We had a good meal, watched the surfers and had a wonderful view. It was really perfect. 

After lunch we had to hike up a good sized hill. It was a little muddy but we made it. The path curved back and forth along the coastline. I really don’t know how else to describe the views, they really are just breathtaking. I could watch the waves for hours. Which is actually what I did. The guys were hiking in front of me. And I felt drawn to sit in the grass on a cliff, so I dropped my bag and enjoyed the view. I got so lost in the moment that I watched the waves for 20 minutes or so and completely forgot about everything else. I found the guys at a bar/cafe down the road. They were waving like parents trying to embarrass their kid in the car pickup line at school. 

I actually said to them, “I’ve got to stop hiking with you old guys. You’re killing my vibe. None of the young guys will hangout with me.” Larry responded, “think of us like your father or grandfathers. We are your protectors. Those guys will have to get through us first.”

Me: “oh great, I’ll be single forever.”

After we got to our hostel, showered and started the laundry, Pablo and I went for a walk…I know right, more walking…back to one of the beaches we passed along the way into town. We got an ice cream (he paid…these guys have been such gentlemen today…I could get used to this), sat in the shade (shadow) and had an awesome “Camino talk”. You know the talk where you share your life story and all the dumb things you’ve done that have landed you on the Camino…for a third time. Pablo is a good egg and is really going places. I’m glad we’ve crossed paths. 

After our chat, I went and played in the surf and FaceTimed Squint. It was so refreshing. Cooled my feet, reduced the swelling and helped my knee a little. 

We had a big pilgrim meal – 10 people. Annette from Germany/Greece was there! I haven’t seen her in days. It was fun to catch up. I really enjoy her company. 

Willy texted to let me know he is doing well. He actually texts me every morning to let me know he is starting and every evening to share that he has made it. It’s sweet. I recommended the hostel we stayed at last night and he is there tonight. He said Elizabeth is another Camino Angel taking good care of him. Your prayers must be working! 

Quote of the day: Pablo; “the Camino and the casino always win.” So true, Pablo, so true. 

I need a good night of rest. I’m still not getting much sleep. Hopefully the sound of the ocean waves will be like a lullaby tonight. 

check out @thewonderingwanderer.insta on Instagram or The Wondering Wanderer on Facebook to see the videos. Unfortunately, I cannot attach them here

Cuerres – La Isla – 22.8km

Goodnight and much love from Spain.

Emily

P.S. Any typos are complimentary.