“People come into your life for a reason, a season, or a lifetime. When you figure out which one it is, you will know what to do for each person.” – unknown
Then there were four. This morning at breakfast we said goodbye to Dani and Justine. As previously mentioned, I am not good with goodbyes. I really enjoyed our time together. These two young women are pretty incredible people with bright futures ahead of them. I will miss them but so grateful that I got to know them. Goodbyes stink.
Last night Stephen bought a Lotto ticket for all six of us. It comes due next week. I’ll let you know if I’m returning to the States or not.
Stephen has never experienced snow. At our morning “goodbye” coffee he asked what it feels like so we were trying to explain it. Have you ever tried to explain what snow feels like hitting your face? It’s not easy to describe. It made for an interesting conversation though.
Today’s walk was actually really great. In the morning it was cool and cloudy. The views were amazing. For most of the walk it was flat. It heated up in the afternoon and we had a huge hill but I’m on Day 11 and apparently that is the day that the body surrenders so it wasn’t too bad. I was feeling great physically. The knee barely barked today and all but one blister has healed…which needed an unsanitary surgery again after dinner. Yesterday’s short walk and the nap I took probably have something to do with the extra energy as well.
I swear the right people keep showing up at exactly the right time. We were about 3 or 4 steps past a little path that we were supposed to take when some German guy (of course) walked up and pointed us in the right direction. The grass was so tall we couldn’t see the arrow. It was odd because he was walking to his camper van that was parked on the path but wonderful at the same time.
Today we were bar (cafe) hopping. The towns were so close together. It was amazing to have so many breaks…and cold drinks. Have I mentioned that the breaks are my favorite part of the hike?
I love walking by all the flower and vegetable gardens. The are neatly manicured and well loved. They grow massive spinach, onions, tomatoes, cabbage, etc. It look delicious and eco friendly.
It’s kind of odd but you literally walk through people’s private property. Today we were right next to some sheep at a spot overlooking the ocean. I was in heaven. Sometimes they use old bed springs for the gates. Last person through is in charge of shutting the gate and turning out the lights.
There were several options for “shortcuts” today. This required much discussion at the Pilgrim Powwows. I stayed quiet but took photos. Again, don’t get between the dudes and their directions.
Today was much more of a mental and emotional day than a physical one. I was processing a lot, I mean A LOT. Walking the Camino is like therapy on steroids. If you want to process some trauma or heal some old wounds…walk and you’ll figure it out. It’s quite amazing. Today I was working on some childhood stuff. Oh come on, we’ve all got it and it shouldn’t be taboo. Shine the light on the darkness. No matter how well intentioned our families, friends, or “the village” was, we’ve all got something to heal from with our little selves. Plus it’s nice to be able to talk stuff out with people who are compassionate but have no idea who or what you’re talking about. It’s really healing for your soul.
Tonight we are in a barebones Albergue in some tiny town, Liendo. It would have been quite comical if we weren’t so hot and tired from walking 24k. They don’t take reservations and there are only 16 beds. First come, first serve. So we arrived about 2:30pm and nobody was at reception. Then we read in one of the guidebooks (which all have different info for every town, by the way) that you have to go to one of the bars (cafe) to get the “keys”. So we walked to the only open bar to find out that the bar that has the key is closed but we need to knock on the window of some random house. We did as told and nobody knew what the heck we were talking about. Then we ran into some random lady on the street (a resident) who told us, no no, just go inside and pick a bed. They will give you a stamp and take your 8€ later. So we came back, all four of us grabbed a bed, showered and then some lady showed up to check us in. Totally random. Surprise bonus…using the washing machine and soap was included in the 8€. Jackpot! But I still have no idea what the keys would have unlocked because the front door was open. “Oh well, it’s Spain.”
The peeps…
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Dora the awesome chick from Taiwan is here. She said she is taking it very slow and only walking 10-15k a day because she is here to enjoy and she doesn’t give a hoot. I knew I was going to like her the moment I met her.
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Some guy from Miami who I’m sure is very nice is here as well. However, the first question he asked me was, “have you ever seen a tornado?” I didn’t ask about any hurricanes, I wanted to be polite.
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I had a drink with a lovely woman from Finland but I don’t have the slightest idea how to say or spell her name. She just retired in October at 63.5 years old and she has been planning this trip for 20 years. It’s her very first Camino. She said she isn’t sure her body will make it to Santiago. Since she just started, I told her to at least hold out for Day 11 before she decides.
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We’ve met so many Germans, I don’t know if I’m in Spain or Germany anymore.
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Some guy just arrived at the hostel. It’s 7:30pm. He walked 60k (37.28 miles)! There is no bed and he is hot to trot about it. Understandably. Thankfully one of the locals is going to take him in for the night. Whoa, that’s a long way.
We saw some Pilgrims with big umbrellas. They said, “we are carrying our shadows.”
Highlight: definitely the sheep.
Big news: the weather will be cooler for the next couple of days. Woo hoo! It’s been in the 80’s F (28° or so C) and the sun is a cooker.
This writing gig is a job within a job after a 7-10 hour walk. I’m glad you guys are enjoying it and giving such nice feedback. Thank you.
Castro Urdiales – Liendo – 24.4km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.









