Today’s walk was amazing. The views were breathtaking. I actually stopped quite a bit to enjoy the moment.
When we hit the road in the morning, we had one pretty big hill to climb but it was okay. I think my body is finally starting to adapt. Plus, we only walked 11k (7 miles). The whole journey should have been 15k (9 miles) but we had a head start due to the wild ride of the room situation last night and the Camino starting at the end of the driveway.
I’m thrilled to have an easy day and rest my legs. Stephen and I sat near the waterfront, drinking a lemon beer and enjoying the views until check-in. We (Stephen, Kersten, Michael & I) did our laundry at a laundromat. And tonight we had a big group dinner with the Germans and three new Americans.
If you write about it, they will come. I met another pilgrim today with a bandana. First time ever. He brought up the topic when he pulled it out of his bag to wipe his face. He loves it because it’s his most useful item – I concur. His name is Frank, and of course he is from Germany. He’s been the head chef at many restaurants all over the world…including Australia, aboard yachts, and all over Europe. He is very nice and loves to chat. He thought my name was Melanie. Thanks, Stephen.
We were the hot gossip on the trail today. Apparently, the hostel where everyone stayed was awful. The beds were close together with tons of people crammed into each room. There was only two showers and one toilet per bathroom. The place held 40 people. They said it was hot all night and it didn’t have a washer, so there was a long line for doing the laundry by hand. Someone asked me, “are you the guys who got to stay at the cool guest house with a washer?” “Yes, we are the Legends of which you speak.”
Camino – 5
Em – 2.5 I’m giving myself an extra half point for rolling with that situation and not having a meltdown. *pats self on back*
To avoid being split up again, we booked six beds for tonight so we could reunite the Camino family. Kersten, Michael, Dani, Justine, Stephen and me. All feels right in the world again.
Our accommodations are nice. We were able to get 3 rooms, 2 beds in each with private bathrooms….a hair dryer AND WHITE TOWELS. Living large with luxury…oooo la la! The little things really do become the big things.
I should explain this more. So the pilgrim life is very different than operating in “normal life”. Walking with someone for a day or two is like being together 3 months. You learn so much about them in a short amount of time. And given that you never know what the accommodations are going to be, you could end up in some weird situations. Two nights ago it was Dani, Justine, Stephen and me in a 4 person room. Today we are in twos. Yes, it appears weird that Stephen and I are in a room with twin beds. It’s just the way of the Camino. You adapt to whatever life throws at you. I’ve always found that everyone is respectful and gives the other person space to shower, change clothes, etc. in private. Plus you aren’t in the room very long anyway.
To explain the dynamic even further, here is a little bit more of Stephen’s story (with his permission). His wife died about four years ago from cancer in Dec 2018. One of the last things she said to him is that she read an article about the Camino and she thought he should walk it within the first year of her death to help him grieve. Wow. What a woman. He followed her direction and has been walking Caminos ever since. He has walked the original Frances, the Portuguese, the French (farther north in France but connects to the original) and the Primativo. He’s walked through Germany, Poland, Denmark, Ireland, England, Australia (the Great Ocean Road), and now the Camino del Norte. He speaks of his wife multiple times a day and she is still very much apart of his life. Sometimes I even feel like she is walking the Camino with us.
He goes back to Australia for a few months at a time to deal with his businesses and to see his family. His dad is still alive (they actually spoke today on the phone) and he has grandchildren and great grandchildren. Even at a distance he seems very involved.
He has an amazing life story. He bought his first plot of land at 16 and sold it two years later and doubled his money. At 20 he built his first house to sell and at 24 his first hotel. He has an entrepreneurial spirit. But you know what he really wanted to do for a career? Be a professional beekeeper. He says it’s not happening now.
He is not sad or lonely but he just loves being a pilgrim. He has walked with people from all over the world. He even goes to visit them in their hometowns and meets their families & friends. The stories he shares are incredible. And these people keep in contact with him regularly. It’s a really lovely life he has created for himself. So if you think there is anything weird going on, the answer is no. He’s just one of those rare good people out here walking and trying to make the world a better place.
Kersten told me that when she walked the Camino the first time, she walked with a 60 year Canadian guy and it was the same situation. It’s just the way of the Camino. It brings the people into your life that you need to experience this adventure.
Sadly, Dani and Justine will leave us tomorrow. They have to take the bus back to Bilbao and then to Germany the day after for the big wedding on Saturday. I’ve really enjoyed their company and will be sad to say goodbye to them at breakfast tomorrow.
We are meeting more people.
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Dora from Taiwan. She is awesome. Fantastic personality. Great sense of humor. Always on the move. Her pack is literally as big as she is. And she is wearing a Houston Rockets hat.
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Luca from Verona, Italy. Sadly, he is flying home today. He sprained his ankle on the first day, spent six days in San Sabastian to rest but still cannot hike. He said he will try again another year. We walked about 15 minutes together and now he is gone. It was a quick hi and goodbye.
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Agneshka & Kesha from Poland (I’m sure I misspelled their names). We met them in the woods a few days ago. It was the morning after my meltdown. They are super sweet and also, always on the move. As soon as we show up to the bar/cafe, they are headed out. It’s like ships passing in the night.
The Americans are taking over…
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We had dinner with Sam from Rochester who I’ve mentioned previously.
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Also at dinner, Alex from NC – a UNC student who just finished a study abroad in Pamplona. She is only hiking for a week before she flies home.
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Lauren, originally from Wisconsin and just moved to San Francisco via Boston joined us for dinner too. She is a medical researcher in the study of ophthalmology.
They told us that there are many more Americans on the trail. Four guys from Texas and another guy who is a Notre Dame student. I’m kind of shocked by this. Rarely do I meet many Americans on these trails. It’s kind of nice to meet other Americans so we can speak English easily and understand each other’s jokes. I think that’s why Stephen and I have remained hiking partners, the English and I apparently walk at the pace of a 62 year old man.
I saw one of those radar signs that clocks your speed and flashes if you’re going to fast. Well, this one flashed a frowny face at the law breakers. Hilarious.
Every person I’ve ever met on the Camino, aside from Americans, calls the shade, “shadow” and it’s the cutest things ever. “Let’s stand in the shadow.”
I found the hall monitors of the town. (See photo of three old guys on a bench) Looks like they have everything under control.
Rumor has it, on the original Frances way, there are between 250-400 pilgrims starting everyday. They said this is a lot for one route. About 350,000-360,000 people walk it every year from all the routes…but even more during the holy years. Last year was a holy year, which means the Pope visits Santiago, plus anyone who walks is automatically absolved of all of their sins (no questions asked, pass go, collect $200) and you can get a special Compostela (certificate at the end) from the monks at the San Fructuoso church marking the holy year. Since Covid was still a concern last year, the Pope extended it to this year too (don’t ask me how that works, I don’t make the rules). Last year, he didn’t visit but rumor has it he will be in Santiago in August. The holy year draws a huge crowd. We’ve heard that accommodations are really hard to find on that route at the moment and in Santiago. We even met someone who switched up to the Norte because it was too stressful. One of the Facebook pages I follow had an interesting photo today (attached). Looks like a Disney Camino.
Mantra: I am happy, I am healthy, I am strong, I am whole.
Highlight: looking at the amazing views of the ocean and the harbor.
Pobena – Castro Urdiales – 15.3km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
