“It’s not the load that breaks you down, it’s the way you carry it.” – Lou Holtz
Just like life, the Camino presents many decisions. How far to walk, where to sleep, when to take a break, and every once in awhile there will be an alternative route and you have to choose. Today, there were two such decisions. First thing in the morning, the route split two ways. All roads still lead to Santiago so no need to worry. Michele (from France) and John (from the Netherlands aka: Ted Danson – they could be twins) decided to take the route inland over the hills and Stephen and I took the coastal walk. I have no idea what Michele and John experienced for those 3.3 miles but our views were stunning. The path was pavement which isn’t the best for the body but the view was worth it. The second split we wanted to take the coastal path again but missed it and ended up in the mountains. Such is life…I have a gut feeling this will happen many more times on our journey. The rolling hills were brutal. It’s not that they were steep (except the last one) but there were so many. Constant up and down, up and down.
The Camino always provides and this time she made it super easy and fun with regards to the scavenger hunt I was about to embark on. When we were waking into one of the towns, I had this impulse to find a post office and mail the colder weather clothes I brought, back to KC. If any of you have been to Spain and tried to mail a package, you will understand why this is so amazing. As we crossed the bridge to enter the town we looked it up on Google maps. Sweet baby Jesus it was actually on the Camino path. No extra walking. Cheers and high-fives all around! Usually you have to walk way off course to find a post office. So I stopped, and they were actually open…they weren’t on siesta (when I arrived at the Madrid airport, Customs was closed because everyone was on siesta so we waited over an hour to officially get into the country. People started clapping when the workers came back to their post. Ha! I have the upmost respect for the siesta), there was no line (hallelujah!), two (TWO!) people were working, and even though they didn’t speak English and I definitely don’t speak Basque we got it all figured out in less than 15 minutes. It cost me 44.40€. The price of making a fearful decision – overpacking. The woo woo in me see the 444 as a good omen though. Stephen said he was speaking to a local surfer who said it is normally cold, rainy and windy this time of year and this weather is unseasonably warm and sunny. So, I wasn’t completely nuts. But I’m a little over 1 kilo (2.2 lbs) lighter in my pack which basically feels like I’ve got wings on my feet. The pep is back in my step.
The knee did pretty well today considering we were on concrete about 75% of the time. Only a few zingers every now and again. When one blister is popped another one shows up but the wheels haven’t fallen off yet. At about day 10-11 the body finally says “oh, okay, you are actually serious about this routine of walking 8-10 hours a day.” Then it will finally stop screaming and surrender. The calluses will form and the bruises and sore muscles will subside. So for now, I’ll keep taking freezing cold showers to dull the pain and reduce the swelling.
We walked by a ton of vineyards today. Discussions were had as to weather they were being grown to eat or for wine since they were hanging so high. When I’ve walked the French Way in July/Aug you can pick the grapes and eat them as you walk…it’s kind of a Pilgrim Privilege – so they say and I haven’t been arrested yet. We also saw a lemon and orange tree in bloom. On my other Camino’s I loved picking figs off the trees but they won’t be ready for a couple of months. Everything is really green at the moment and some of the flowers and trees are blooming. Yesterday, Michele had us eat flowers off one of the trees. Nobody died. I have no idea what she said it was but it was white in color and sweet to taste. She said she bakes it in cakes. In July/Aug, parts of the Camino resemble Kansas. The fields are covered in sunflowers. It’s interesting to see the difference in the landscape.
Quote of the day: 7am
Me: “Would you like a granola bar?”
Polish Girl: “No thank you, I have a shit load of croissants.”
Funny moment: Every pilgrim is required to have a “Pilgrim Passport” (see photo). Everywhere you sleep you are required to get a stamp to prove that you walked the Camino to receive your Compostela (certificate) and to stay in the pilgrim hostels. You can also get stamps from cafes, churches, roadside food trucks, etc. Many people collect as many as they can. While I was at the post office (Correos) mailing my package back to KC, I noticed an official office stamp to mark the date (nothing to do with the Camino) sitting on the woman’s desk and asked her if she would stamp my passport since it’s not a place you would normally get a stamp. She and her coworker burst out laughing as did I. It was a cute moment between people from different parts of the world. It’s now my favorite stamp from all three Camino’s.
Highlight of the day: eating a chocolate croissant. The first of probably many on this Camino.
Lastly, I received several private messages about my previous recap post. Friends sharing a message of thanks for being so vulnerable by sharing what I was experiencing and how they are dealing with similar issues of surrendering and letting go. The last photo is a tiny portion of a quote, Our Deepest Fear, by Marianne Williamson that sums up this mentality.
Find the light, be the light, share the light.
Zarautz – Itziar 19.5km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
