Day 6, Via Francigena: to Bolsena

“The purpose of this glorious life is not simply to endure it, but to soar, stumble, and flourish as you learn to fall in love with existence. We were born to live my dear, not to merely exist.” Becca Lee

Guidebook mileage: 22.8km (14.16 miles)

Garmin watch mileage: Not sure because I forgot to check it before walking around town and swimming in the lake. But as of the end of the day, 31.22km (19.4 miles)

Acquapendente to Bolsena

I’m really enjoying my hike and time in Italy. I’m glad I decided at the last minute to do it.

I had the absolute best sleep last night. I had a private room and a F.A.N. I didn’t wake up once. But I also overslept. I forgot to set my alarm…maybe that’s a good thing. I didn’t wake up until 5:56 am and was out the door by 6:29 am. Usually when I leave nothing in the town is open so I actually planned to eat the cucumber that Costanzo gave me yesterday. However, because I was so late leaving, there was an open cafe! Yesss!

Breakfast of Champions! Macchiato and my favorite chocolate croissant. I haven’t had one in awhile so it was a nice treat. I ate the cucumber as a snack later in the day.

I didn’t start walking out of town until 6:55 am. Too late but oh well. On my way out, I looked for a fountain that Joel had talked about yesterday. It has several spigots and the story goes, many, many years ago, this is where the women would wash the clothes and bathe the kids. We walked by it yesterday but I didn’t notice it and wanted to make sure I saw it on my way out. It’s beautiful.

Last night I said goodbye to Cindy and Joel. They have other plans that they are tending to. Cindy has many friends in this area so they’re going to see them. I might see them in a couple of days again but nothing is guaranteed. When you finish walking with someone on the Camino, if you’ve enjoyed their company, then typically you give them a little gift. Well, since they are getting ready to climb the GR20, they really cannot have any extra weight in their bags so I gave them what I think is the perfect parting gift.

A few days ago Cindy and I were talking about our lives. She told me she studied abroad in 1977-78 in South Africa. I visited South Africa in the early 2000s so I asked her which town she was in. She said,”Durban.” I said, “I was actually in Durban as well but in a little village outside of it called Pine Town.” She gasped, “What?!? I actually lived in Pine Town with a host family.” Ironically enough we had both been in the same place but a different times.

Anyone who followed my writing about the Portuguese Camino last month will know that I hiked with several South Africans. If you recall, there were two lovely women that I met fairly early on when I was dealing with my blister problem. One of the women gave me some sheep’s wool to use in my sock to help with blisters. You can put it on your foot inside the sock and the lanolin oil will prevent friction. The little bit I used I had gotten rid of but I still had part of the package left. I thought it was the perfect gift with symbolism of South Africa, but also practical and light weight for their bags. I think Mariette, the woman who gave it to me, would be very touched to know that it went from one American, who visited South Africa to another. It is the gift that keeps on giving. 🐑

Today’s walk was amazing. I took so many photos and videos. Every twist and turn on the path was more and more beautiful.

The first half of the trail was through farm fields. It reminded me so much of Kansas. I watched the waving wheat, sunflowers, a farmer adjusting the crop sprayer and another moving equipment around the fields. Most people probably find it boring but I really enjoyed it.

The edges of the roads were covered with wildflowers…specifically poppies. I made my backpack bouquet with them today.

Looking at all the food growing in the fields made me hungry so I ate the cucumber that Costanzo gave me yesterday from his garden. It was delicious. This photo is for him. There is something special about produce grown from someone’s back yard. It must have more love and good vibes mixed into it.

I met a farmer and his dog. Meet Lily. I don’t know the farmer’s name, sorry. Priorities.

After the walk through the fields, I stopped in San Lorenzo Nuovo, it is basically the halfway point. What a cute little town. I watched kids performing dances for their school in the main piazza. I stopped at a produce shop and I was in heaven! I bought way to much fruit and now my bag is heavy…but I don’t care!

Then I met the funniest three Italian men at a cafe. I was in stitches laughing at their stories…which they were hell bent on telling me via Google Translate. One guy left for awhile and brought back huge mushrooms. He invited me over for dinner and to watch Formula 1 with him. Sadly, I had to turn him down but the mushrooms were amazing. He had me smell them and they were so fragrant. I wonder if he was trying to use it as an aphrodisiac. Ha! These guys were wild.

I met two (new to me) pilgrims at the cafe. Beatrice and Stefano from a town near Venice. Lovely people. We only chatted briefly but when Beatrice discovered I didn’t have a reservation for tonight, she offered to call for me. Very kind but I took my chances with the pilgrim accommodations and as it turns out I’m the only one there.

I still had the second half of the walk to finish to reach Bolsena. It was also a beautiful walk. I started late and then took an extra long break at the cafe chatting with the Three Stooges so it was pretty warm when I got going again.

This part of the walk was in the hills with amazing views of Lago di Balse (the lake).

I walked behind Stefano and Beatrice for just a brief moment. Somehow I missed a marker and ended up on the road for a short stint. Turns out it was a shortcut but there was no shoulder and lots of traffic. It all worked out though…I’m still alive and writing the blog.

After several hours of nonstop walking, I made it to Bolsena. I’ve been looking forward to this stop for a couple of days. I just wanted to jump in that lake! This is another one of those places I don’t want to write about so it doesn’t become a hot spot with tourists. It’s a sweet little gem of a place.

I stopped and got some gelato because nobody answered the door at the hostel. I wanted to make sure they had a bed, check in, and leave my bag before diving in the water.

I tried the doorbell again. No answer. I tried one more time just for luck and then I heard a woman yelling from above me. I looked up and didn’t see anyone. She kept yelling. I looked at the balcony on the top floor across the street and there she was, a little nonna with lunga like Michael Phelps. We spoke briefly in Italian and she basically said, “Hold your horses. I’ll be down in five minutes.” I took my bag off and sat on the step.

Once inside, she has me fill out the standard paperwork and she went over the rules of the place. THEN…I got the Italian Grandmother Shakedown. The moment reminded me of that scene in Uncle Buck when McCauly Caulkins character drills John Candy’s character with questions. She was speaking so fast in Italian we had to use Google Translate Conversation.

Are you alone?
Why?
Are you going to call a man from your telephone tonight? (Literal translation)
You are too beautiful to be single, why? Not sure if this was a statement or a question.
Where are you staying in Rome?
Will you meet a man there?

She was relentless. I found it funny. I know most people will say that I don’t need a man to be complete and these questions are inappropriate. All true. However, she is from a different generation. She appeared to be born in the 1700s, so I let it slide. I wasn’t offended one bit.

Like I said above, it’s 8:40 pm as I write this and I’m the only pilgrim in the place. It’s very basic and a little spooky. I think it’s owned by the church and the “friendly greeter” is a volunteer. It even has a chapel on the main level. Weird. But it’s clean and indoors so what do I care for one night.

After check in, I changed into my bathing suit and was out the door to the lake. A friendly shopkeeper recommended a different part of the lake to swim that was less crowed and cleaner water. She was right, it was beautiful and peaceful. The water was so refreshing! I really enjoyed the swim. Just look how beautiful it is. Check it out here.