Day 7, Via Francigena: to Montefiascone

“Italy has a baseball league?” – Me. My reply when I was invited to eat dinner with the local baseball team.

Bolsena to Montefiascone

Guidebook mileage: 16.49km (10.25 miles)

Garmin watch mileage: No idea because I forgot to look at my watch when I arrived but as of now it says, 23.49km (14.6 miles).

PSA: Apologies in advance if this post has a ton of typos and doesn’t make sense. I’m exhausted after a fun and action packed day. …

What a day! It was filled with surprise after surprise. I feel like the more I focus on the positive and open myself up to the mysteries of life, the more fun and wonderful experiences I am having. Today was no exception.

I woke up at 4:30 am (before my alarm) excited to start my day but since today was only 10 miles, the shortest hike of all the days, I decided to wait around until a coffee shop opened at 6:30 am. I looked at the weather and the guidebook. There were no stops along the way and it was supposed to be cool and cloudy and possibly rain about 2 pm but it never did.

The walk was stunning. Almost the entire trail was in the woods. One a few meters of road walking, thank goodness.

I saw so many beautiful things along the way from old olive trees, to insects sleeping on flowers, to massive vineyards, and even several waterfalls. It was a really enjoyable walk.

Kari who runs my social media made another recap video of the day, check it out here. She does such a good job. I’m thankful to have her on my team.

One of the funnier moments on the trail was when I met the first Massimo of the day (I met a total of three). I was taking a timed-selfie near a sign and he approached me coming from the other direction. He was confused as to what I was doing squatting down on the ground.

Speaking in Italian, Massimo didn’t speak any English which means more practice for me, I explained that I am a pilgrim (pellegrina) on the Via Francigena. His face lit up and that’s when he shared his life story and I’m sure I missed at least 3/4 of what he said because he spoke in rapid fire. But I did understand that he lived in Bolsena, the town I had spent last night in and he was on his daily walk. We talked for awhile and then I said, “I’m sorry but I need to keep walking, I have an appointment.” Well, Massimo was undeterred and decided to walk with me for at least an hour in the opposite direction he was headed. These Italians make me laugh. I’m never going to make it to Rome if they keep stopping me to chat.

After the short 10-mile hike, I made it to Montefiascone, the town I’m sleeping in tonight. I headed straight to my hostel so I could shower and prepare for my “appointment.”

This is where I met the second Massimo. When I arrived the hostel was locked so I called and a man named Massimo answered the phone. When I explained that I was sitting on the front stoop of the building, he said he was at lunch and will be there in a little bit. When he arrived, he was in a very big hurry. So he scanned my passport, put a stamp in my pilgrim passport, took my €20, showed me my bed, gave me a key, and left. This is the first pilgrim hostel I’ve ever stayed at that has gym equipment.

This is Massimo #2.

Once I showered, and re-organized my bag, I was ready for my “appointment.” I’ve been looking forward to this “appointment” all day. Remember Cindy and Joel from Michigan/California that I hiked with for a few days? Well, they have friends, Laura and Pietro, here in Montefiascone and they invited me to their house! How fun!

There were a few big highlights of spending time with these people. 1. I got to see Cindy and Joel again. 2. I was meeting some new Italians. 3. We were going house hunting! 4. Pietro is the coach for the local baseball team and we were invited to the team BBQ! I was so excited.

Laura and Pietro are farmers. They own three vineyard fields, an olive grove (maybe two), and a bunch of kiwi trees.

Sadly, in May, Italy had a ton of flooding and it ruined this year’s harvest for not only the grapes but the olives as well. It devastated the entire region and it was even worse up North. Thankfully, they also have a B&B they operate next to their home (agriturismo) so they have a little something to fall back on.

Laura and Pietro could not have been kinder. They let me do my laundry at their house. They fed me. They let me tag along during the house hunting excursion. Which was great research for when I finally buy a home in Italy.

We toured four homes and a hostel. Two fairly new homes that people were either living in or just passed away and two abandoned homes. Some of the treasures we found in these old homes were wild! Old wine presses (I imagined myself stomping grapes with Lucille Ball in an episode of I Love Lucy), baby carriages, family photos, and metal chairs. One home had an extra bathroom built onto the back and was held up by a brick pillar. Ummmm, no thank you.

The most bizarre moment of the house hunting tour was, when we showed up at the hostel I’m staying in tonight. Apparently, it is for sale. So if anyone is interested in a fully functional hostel on the Via Francigena in Montefiascone, you let me know and I’ll get you connected. It’s actually a great price but warning, there is bacteria growing in the wine cellar that is used in penicillin! I about died but it seemed normal to the locals.

I had mentioned to Cindy and Joel that I worked in sports and specifically for the Kansas City Royals (a lifetime ago). I shared how much I love sports so they made this next unique experience at the ballpark happen just for me. I was touched.

We had a great time at the BBQ which was at the ballpark. We got to go everywhere. On the field, in the dugout, and in the main room with all the trophies. They showed us history books with Italian players in old uniforms and maps with the locations of the teams (don’t worry, I got permission to post this stuff). They are very proud of their teams and the sport.

Luis, the Manager, is from Venezuela and knows Salvador Perez from the Royals and Pietro has a good friend from Italy who works at the Urban Youth Academy in KC.

The world is getting smaller and smaller. I don’t think it’s six degrees of Kevin Bacon anymore. I think it’s only one or two.

I met the third Massimo at the BBQ and this dude was a hoot. He was old but fiesty…and very fun.

I’m beyond thankful to Cindy and Joel for inviting me and introducing me to Laura and Pietro. It was an incredible day and I really enjoyed the experience. ❤️

I am the only pilgrim (AGAIN) in the hostel tonight. It’s kind of big and spooky. And now that I know there’s penicillin growing up in the basement, I’m even more freaked out. Hopefully, I can get a good night’s rest and be back on the road in the morning.

Everyone says it’s hard to find accommodations on the VF…apparently not if you walk in June. Massimo #2 said most people walk in April/May or July/Aug. So if you are considering walking the VF in the future, June is a great time.

Goodnight and much love & gratitude from Italy! 🇮🇹