“Please watch out for each other and love and forgive everybody. It’s a good life, enjoy it.” – Jim Henson
…
Breaking news (as in, I was just about to hit send when I got the text(s) from back home): Tina Turner died. She was one of my idols and inspiration. Not so much the performer, but the person. She overcame so much adversity and did it with grace and dignity. The world lost an incredible woman today. RIP Anna Mae 💜
…
Today’s walk out of Ovar was…ummm…just okay. The first several miles were on road/pavement and through an industrial area. Not fun. But then I got to another beautiful forest and nature embrace me with a warm hug.
After the forest, the majority of the trail ran parallel to some train tracks. And man was it long and straight…and boring. I started to wonder what part of this walk did Nik and the South African ladies like so much?
About halfway, I stopped at this tiny cafe/supermarket/lottery shop. Anytime I walk into these places, the locals stare at my like I have six heads. I don’t consider it rude or mean, I feel like they are just curious about the foreigner. Plus, I’m off the official Camino route so I am REALLY out of place for these folks.
I’m a big believer in energy…and what you put out boomerangs right back. So once the initial shock on their faces subsides, I smile big and say hello and good day (in whatever language applies to whichever country I’m visiting) and then, I get the same response in return…and sometimes even more. It kind of breaks the ice.
Well, something special happened in this little joint. It’s the first time EVER that it has happened to me on a Camino…surprisingly.
In Portugal (and Spain and Italy and many countries) you order at the counter but don’t pay until you are about to walk out the door. Side note: I have walked out of a cafe in Spain twice without paying…a total accident but I’m used to paying when I order a coffee.
So, I ordered a coffee and took it outside to one of the tables. I drank it slowly and read a little bit of my book. The walk was short again today so I was in no rush, I couldn’t check into my hostel until 2 pm and it was only 9:45 am.
Some locals walked in and out, always saying hello as they passed by me. I finished my drink and then when I went to pay, the woman behind the counter said that one of the guys who was standing next to me when I ordered had paid for my coffee. I know, it’s only like €0.70 but it was the thought that matters. She said he noticed I was a pilgrim and told her to tell me to have a good walk (Bom Caminho). I was so touched. It really made my day and I wish I could have personally told him thank you but she said he had already left and so I have no idea who he was but he was definitely a Camino Angel. ❤️
When I went back outside to get my bag and hiking sticks, the guys at this table (see photo) wanted to chat. So I put my bag down, pulled up a chair and we played a fun game of charades. Turns out one guy was from Switzerland, another from the Netherlands and the third guy was from Germany. What a worldly table we had there in the tiny town of Maceda (population: 3,380 as of 2021 – I looked it up).
After this stop, I made my way to Espinho, the town I’m staying in tonight. Which is located next to the ATLANTIC OCEAN! Woo hoo! I made it to the ocean!
I arrived in town at 12:30 pm (remember check-in isn’t until 2 pm) so I made a beeline for the beach!
As soon as I got close, I kicked off my shoes and grabbed my flip flops and jogged on the warm sand to the surf to put my feet in the ice cold water. O.M.G. It was so refreshing and felt so good on my tired, blister-covered, black toenail, feet. You have no idea.
I stood there for quite awhile watching the surfers and just enjoying the sounds and smells. It was really great.
I picked up a couple of shells and tossed them in the waist pocket of my backpack. I have rocks and shells in there from all of my Caminos.
After a bit, I decided I’d get some lunch. I’ve been eating a ton of fish and salads so I opted for a Margarita pizza and beer. I don’t have a photo of it because the kind waiter took my phone and charged it behind the counter for me.
After lunch it was time to check into my hostel – 18 St. Hostel. Diogo, the owner has a beautiful place. It’s more for travelers but he does have a room with four twin beds for pilgrims even though he doesn’t get too many – it’s not of the official route. He cuts up his old business cards and glues them as the stamp for the pilgrim passport, ha!
The hostel is in a gorgeous older home that was in his family. He bought it a few years ago from his parents and turned it into a hostel. Diogo is 43 and used to work in economics but he got burnt out and wanted to do something where he would meet people from all over the world. I think he has found the perfect career.
His parents were there when I came back from walking around the city. His mother is a language teacher and speaks English really well. She said, “I’m Big Mama and this is Silent Papà.” And those names could not describe any two people more accurately. She has a huge personality and Pops can’t get a word in edgewise. She said, all the travelers become her family and I must come back for a visit. She showed me tons of photos of other travelers who have come back…”so it’s a must!”she says! Then she wrote down my phone number and ask for my full name on Facebook because she would send me a friend request as soon as she could figure out her phone. Ha!
Big Mama did give me and other female travelers a very nice compliment. She said she is in awe of all the solo female pilgrims and travelers around the world. She said she wished she would have tried something so adventurous back in her youth. She said she was really proud of me.❤️
Before I sign off for the night, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention this. In every cafe I’ve been in for the last two days and the covers of all the newspapers I’ve seen, have featured a new search for Madeleine McCann. No country or their people want to be the topic of such horrible global news. The locals seem pretty distraught over this unsolved case. Several of them have said they hope there is a resolution for the family and their country so peace can be had. So just keep everyone in your thoughts when you see it in the news. It’s a tough topic over here.
Goodnight and much love from Portugal! 🇵🇹
Scenes from Day 20
In addition to eucalyptus trees…there is a TON of bamboo growing in Portugal.
