“I just want to live in a world of mountains, coffee, campfires, cabins, and golden trees, and run around with a camera and notebook, learning the inner workings of everything real.” – Victoria Erickson
I made it to Porto today! High-fives all around. More on that later.
Let’s discuss the amazing morning walk I had out of Espinho. There were at least two options for walking out of town. Through the city or along the boardwalk. It was a pretty easy decision.
I walked about three miles (5 km) along the boardwalk next to the beach. I was so mesmerized by the ocean that walking for one hour felt like 15 minutes.
Once I got to the end of the boardwalk where the path was going inland, I walked past a train platform and decided I wanted to try to figure out the train system in Portugal. With the help of a lovely local woman who spoke very good English, she helped me buy a ticket and explained everything. So I boarded a train for 3 stops (3 miles) and rode with the locals. I love walking so I didn’t want to go too far (I could have ridden it all the way to Porto) but I was curious as to how it worked so I gave it a try.
I got off at an adorable town, Valadares, with even more adorable people.
There was a cafe next to the train platform so I stopped in for an espresso. Outside a woman was selling fish that was caught just hours earlier. And inside, oh inside the local coffee club was gathered. Anyone who has been following my blog for a while knows how I love to join in on a fun coffee club get-together.
Remember, I’m off the Camino path so these people were stunned to see me. At first they thought I was a Ukrainian refugee (which sadly is not uncommon here at the moment). I explained that I was a pilgrim on the Camino and then I got HUGS! The woman (in the photo below) who is sitting at waving at the camera, she got up out of her chair to hug me and kiss me on both cheeks. None of these people spoke a lick of English and my Portuguese is almost nil but somehow we always figure it out. When I left, they all stood at the window and waved me off and blew kisses like I was headed off to battle or something. It was very sweet. But I guess, the reality of the situation is that our encounter was brief and more than likely we will never see each other again. So the send off was appreciated.
Next stop on the map…PORTO!
Yes, after many delays, I’ve finally made it to Porto where it is 77F (25C) and sunny! Only 248 km (154 miles) to Santiago…give or take a few depending on the route you take. Coastal or inland.
Met a lovely Pilgrim on the bridge. Gerard from Ireland. We walked at talked our way to the Cathedral to get a stamp. Then we split ways only to see each other again at the hostel tonight. He is a hoot! I can’t stop laughing when I’m in his presence. He is 64 but you’d swear he was only 54…or maybe 34 with all his energy. We were so immersed in our conversation with each other that I never got a photo but trust me, he is darling. He is leaving in the morning and I’m staying another night but I do hope our paths cross again.
Now that I’m back on the official path, I see arrows EVERYWHERE. 💛
I stopped at a cute little cafe, Cafeteria Ribeira, to have a cup of coffee (again), look at the map, and rest my feet while I waited to meet up with an old friend. I’ve been to Porto several times but I needed to refresh my memory. Fernando, the guy working behind the counter was so helpful. Not only was he able to make an amazing drink but he gave me a free city map and showed me where my hostel was and a few other spots I should check out while I’m here.
This next event has been in the works for days! I was so excited to see a friendly face from home. My friend and former coworker at the Kansas City Royals (that’s a Major League Baseball team for the international followers and non-sporty people in the group) happened to be traveling in Portugal at the same time I am. And not only is he visiting many towns/cities in Portugal but he happened to be in Porto the exact day I am in Porto. Mike and his friends leave tomorrow BUT I got to have lunch with them today! 💙 It was the highlight of the day, and not just because they bought my lunch, but because it’s nice to have a little bit of sunshine from home when you’re on a big adventure like the Camino.
And for those loyal Royals fans…the title of this blog is for you. 💙⚾️
After a wonderful lunch and catching up with Mike and friends, I made my way to the hostel where I’ll be staying for two night. I love Porto and I love a rest day so why not combine the two? Plus, I have another surprise for tomorrow.
I’m staying at a lovely and authentic pilgrim hostel here in Porto. It’s called Albergue de Peregrinos Porto. You must be a pilgrim to be able to stay here. A nice guy (and cycling pilgrim) named Oscar owns and operates it so he understands what pilgrims need and want from a hostel. Another wonderful thing Oscar has done is, he hired and is housing a wonderful woman, Elaina, from the Ukraine who works the front desk. And let me tell you, she keeps this place organized and running like a well-oiled machine. I liked her immediately when I walked in the front door.
The feeling you get when you stay here is one of kindness and a sort of welcome after a long walk. They embrace the pilgrims very differently than most hostels. They want you to feel like it’s your home, even if you’re only staying for a night or two. I only took a photo of my room but it’s a huge place that holds about 50 people. There is a kitchen, dining room, living room, and garden area for people to rest and enjoy after a long day.
I’ve met some lovely pilgrims here as well.
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Ellen and Christopher from Denmark. A mother and son duo. For Ellen’s 75 birthday wish, she asked her sons to walk the Camino with her but then Covid hit. So now she is 78 and this is her 15th Camino. I think Christopher is walking his way to all the inheritance.
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Barbara from Germany (at least in her 50’s). She walked from Porto to Santiago and BACK! She leaves for home tomorrow.
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Cyril from the Czech Republic. I was excited to meet him since I lived in Prague 21 years ago. We had a great chat and wonderful memories came flooding back from our discussion. This is his second Camino.
I walked on so many different surfaces today. Just look at this! https://youtube.com/shorts/Q5owpfLuLYQ?feature=share
Goodnight and much love from Portugal! 🇵🇹
Scenes from Day 21
The moment just before I was almost crushed by a cement truck. Peek-a-boo.
