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“Necessity is the mother of invention.” Plato
Today was full of more stunning Romanian scenery, gorgeous sunny weather, and memorable moments I’ll remember long after my sore body has forgiven me.
The trek wasn’t too difficult but it was long – over 16 miles (27 km). It is only day two in the Highlands region but it is proving to be less mountainous and more gentle on the knees than Bucovina
The guidebook and the staff at Via Transilvanica headquarters yesterday, said the first seven days are the hardest. From here on, the trail gradually flattens out, with just the occasional mountain thrown in to keep us humble.
Unfortunately, my feet didn’t get the memo.
The bottoms of my feet still feel like I’m walking barefoot across a hardwood floor covered in Legos. Today’s route featured long stretches of gravel roads and fist-sized rocks, which somehow managed to make every single step hurt even more.
I’m hoping this is just part of the adjustment period because otherwise…I’ve got another 1,200+ kilometers of suffering ahead of me.
Fortunately, the trail kept things entertaining.
We tackled a few unexpected obstacles that turned the day into a bit of an adventure course, and honestly, that just made it more fun.
We spent a good portion of the day hiking with Catalin from Spain/Romania.
He is crazy.
He is filming his hike for his YouTube channel and is carrying 25 kilos (55 lbs) on his back and another five kilos (11 lbs) of camera equipment on the front.
His backpack has solar panels attached to charge everything. He carries a tent, camera gear, batteries, electronics, food, and when his water reservoir is full, that’s another 3 kilograms (6 pounds).
The man is literally hiking with his house, office, and a production studio strapped to his body.
And somehow…
…he smiles the entire time.
One detail did make me question his survival instincts.
He mentioned he sleeps with his food inside his tent.
Sir…
Hello?
We are hiking through bear country.
But hey, he’s a grown man who can make his own decisions. Who am I to tell him how to manage his trip.
Hopefully, he doesn’t get added to the statistic of “Here is yet another example of why women live longer than men.”
One of my favorite moments came while passing a farm.
One horse wandered over to investigate us. He was absolutely beautiful, with a perfect little white heart-shaped marking right in the middle of his forehead.
He gently leaned his face toward us, asking for scratches like we’d been friends forever.
It’s little magical moments like this, when the world is peaceful and still that really make you appreciate the journey.
A few kilometers before reaching town, we experienced another unforgettable act of kindness.
Massimo and I were in our own world, deep in conversation when a man stepped out of his house and opened the front gate along the road. He spoke to us in Romanian.
We tried English…then Italian…then just smiling.
His eyes were incredible. Bright, kind, almost angelic-like. I was mesmerized by him.
Without saying much, he handed each of us a packet of hot chocolate and gave us both a firm handshake.
His clothes were worn, and both socks had holes large enough to qualify as air conditioning vents. It struck me that this simple gift probably meant much more coming from him than it did from us receiving it.
He proudly mentioned the Via Transilvanica and smiled from ear to ear. Most of the people we’ve met so far are extremely proud of this new national trail that is bringing visitors from around the world.
Maybe greeting hikers is one of the highlights of his day.
Maybe we’re some of the only visitors who pass his home.
Who knows?
But his generosity stayed with me.
Later at dinner, Adam and Peter from the Czech Republic told us they’d also met him. He’d greeted them with the exact same warmth and gifted them a can of meat.
I sincerely hope he isn’t giving away food he needs himself.
Sometimes the people with the least give the most.
But the best part of the day for me was…
Let me back up.
There are maybe one or two things that stress me out about long distance hiking – like finding accommodation or the weather – but those pale in comparison to the stress of, where on earth am I going to pee?
Many long-distance trails I’ve hiked pass through towns every few hours, but the Via Transilvanica doesn’t. There are long stretches with absolutely no facilities.
Ladies, I don’t know if you are like me but I hate peeing in the woods.
First, you have to find a good spot so you can get halfway naked in private.
Second, it’s awkward.
Third, and perhaps most importantly, I usually end up peeing on one of my shoes.
And on this trail?
The last thing I wanted was to come face-to-face with a bear while squatting in the bushes with my pants around my knees.
So before coming to Romania, I began researching alternatives.
Friends…
There is an entire industry devoted to helping women pee standing up outdoors.
Honestly, I wish researchers put half this much effort into perimenopause and menopause. Good Lord.
I watched Instagram videos and read countless reviews on devices with names like the pStyle, SheWee, GoGirl, Peequal, and Freshette.
After far more research than I’d like to admit…
Ladies (and Gents if you care), let me introduce you to my first ever urinary travel device…
the Tinkle Bell.
What a great name and logo.
If you’re looking for cheap entertainment, just read the reviews on Amazon. The ones with the videos are my favorite.
You’re welcome.
At one point during the hike, I mentioned to Massimo that I needed to pee and I stopped alongside the trail.
He looked at me puzzled, “Where? Here?”
“Yes, here.” And with a smile I pulled out my new Tinkle Bell.
Even more confused he said, “But what are you doing? while flashing me the international Italian hand gesture for WTF. 🤌🤌🤌
I laughed and said, “I can pee while standing up too now. You’re not so special anymore.” With a big grin on my face.
“You are crazy,” he said bursting with laughter.
“Probably,” I admitted. “And maybe a little feral.”
He just stood there. Dumbfounded and confused.
Ummm, excuse me, Sir. Move along, please. I need my privacy.
I motioned with my hand for him to move.
A few moments later…
Success.
For the first time in my life, I peed standing up in the middle of nature.
And let me tell you…
It was glorious.
I know this isn’t exactly what Martin Luther King Jr. was talking about, but in that moment all I could hear was:
“Free at last…free at last…”
This little gadget has been an absolute game changer.
I’m no longer rationing water because I’m worried about finding somewhere to pee.
Quite the opposite.
BRING ME THE LIQUIDS! ALL OF THEM!
I think I actually peed outside more times than Massimo did today. 💪
That’s a sweet victory I’ll happily accept.
Ladies, if you hike, camp, attend music festivals, road trip, or simply want to freak out your neighbors…
Buy one.
It folds into a discreet carrying case, cleans easily with a little water, and trust me, changes everything.
It’s a revolution.
I also bought their reusable pee cloth.
Mainly because it says: “I Love Peeing Outside.”
Apparently…
Now I do too. 🧡💦
Tonight we are staying at a guesthouse recommended by a French hiker we met on the trail who was walking in the opposite direction. He stayed here last night. The owner George and I spoke in English on the phone to make the reservation.
When I said our names to confirm the booking, he said, “Massimo? Italiano?”
Me: “Si, si.”
George: “Oh buongiorno, Massimo!!”
Nope, sorry, it’s just me. Massimo was nowhere near the phone. I was the only person on the other end of the phone line but I’ll be sure to pass along the sentiment.
He told me to call when we arrived in town and he would pick us up since their house is over a kilometer from the trail.
When George pulled up in his car, he had a huge smile on his face. He practically jumped out of the car and embraced Massimo in a bear hug like they were old war buddies who survived artillery fire in a bunker together.
I wish I would have taken a photo. Massimo was so confused. Ha! He quietly said to me, “Should I know him?”
Later at dinner, in front of everyone, George said, “I love you, Massimo.”
We all laughed and Massimo was visibly startled by this new intimate relationship with a man he’s never met.
Massimo has this effect on people all the time – he just can’t see it for himself.
George went on to say in English, “Italiano and Romanian are like brothers…
…and with perfect comedic timing…
“Oh, and I love my wife too.”
What a wonderfully kind way to end another beautiful day.
Goodnight, and I’ll see you back here tomorrow.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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We stopped midday at a restaurant for a sandwich and lemonade – and to make the reservation with George. Massimo gets annoyed with me because he has to wait while I take photos of everything, but he is like puppy in training.
“Wait…wait…wait….
…okay now!”
The sandwich, and the fresh squeezed lemonade were delicious by the way.
A rare sighting…me in front of Massimo. He must have stopped to pee.
My shoes never stood a chance.
Mud puddle 1 | Emily 0
