“That’s when I realized what a true friend was. Someone who would always love you – the imperfect you, the confused you, the wrong you – because that is what people are supposed to do.” – r.j.l.
Julio and Mama Gloria rolled out the red carpet for the pilgrim’s breakfast at Hostel Charino. Wowza! Mama Gloria even made homemade toasted ham and cheese sandwiches. The perfect way to start the morning before heading out to hike on a rainy day.
Today is the first day of my hike that had consistent rain, almost all day. Don’t worry, I was prepared and so was the Blue Beast.
Milena (my Italian roommate from last night) and I walked together all day….in the rain.
At the edge of the city center, we ran into some awe-inspiring Italian guys. They asked me if I would take their photo on the bridge, which of course I was happy to do…hello handsome Italian men. 🇮🇹 Not only were they kind, friendly, and very handsome, they were a band of friends who had a special bond. They didn’t speak any English and because of the rain it was tough to use Google Translate but it appeared these guys had planned the trip of a lifetime. One that involved getting their friend Paulo, who is in a wheelchair to Santiago.
Paulo and I connected briefly and he showed me his Instagram page with some amazing videos of their trip so far. Definitely check it out if you get a chance. His Instagram handle is @_bilzu_
Paulo and the guys were cool with me taking some photos and sharing their story in my blog. Check out this awesome system they have set up with ropes to conquer those steep hills. It was really nice to see such teamwork and their friendship seems rock solid. Bravo! I love how the Camino brings people together from all areas of the world. I wish them well on the journey to Santiago.
We said goodbye to the Italians at the fork in the road. Milena and I were taking the Variante Espiritual Route while the guys were headed out on the original path.
Then there were three. Not long after we were walking on the variante route we came across Louise from New Zealand. I’m pretty sure she is the first Kiwi I’ve met on this Camino. Louise joined our duo for the remainder of the journey and it was a pleasure.
Louise is absolutely fantastic. I enjoyed her company immensely. She is very grounded but has a spark of fire in her. She is adventurous and kind spirited. We walked and talked most of the way which made me forget about the rain and my soggy shoes and socks that squished with every step. Our conversation was so enthralling that the hours and the mountain we climbed seemed to fly by.
Did I mention it rained all day?
Everything was so lush and green on today’s hike. The photos are beautiful but the experience was incredible.
After our slightly difficult (compared to the coast) but actually very enjoyable hike (even in the rain), we made it to our destination, the bar. We saw some friendly faces having a drink when we arrived…Sarah and Gabino.
We (Sarah, Gabino, Milena, Louise and me) ate lunch together and talked about our day…and the weather and all of our hiking injuries. We compared battle wounds.
Inside the bar, I ran into the Italian couple, Danielle and Rossella, from yesterday. It was good to see them and I introduced them to Milena. There are so many Italians on this hike!
Sarah introduced me to a new drink…well new for me in Spain. It’s basically espresso with Bailey’s but the Spanish version. Delish! Why didn’t I know about this sooner? It was perfect for a……………rainy day. ☔️
After lunch I walked to the hostel. I met a sad looking horse along the way so I gave him my last two figs which seemed to cheer him up.
Once I arrived, I checked in and immediately put newspapers in my shoes. Hopefully, they will be a little dryer by tomorrow…as of now, they are wet and gross. It’s the only day so far that I’ve missed my hiking boots.
I decided not to go back to the bar for dinner with everyone so I ate what I had in my bag. A can of tuna. I bought two oranges from the hostel owner as well. Dinner of champions. But it was a great decision. I met another Kiwi! Two in one day, what are the odds?
Hammond from Christchurch. He is an interesting character. Very intelligent and witty. I like that in a person. We had an enjoyable conversation about, well, just about everything. We discussed our lives, our countries, politics, movies (he used to work in the movie biz), music, writing, (he might possibly start a Substack so I shared all the secrets I’ve learned. I’ll pass along his link once it’s up and running – and if his storytelling is as good on “paper” as it is orally, you’ll definitely want to become a follower) and sadly, we talked about the 2011 earthquake that happened in Christchurch. Thankfully, he and his family survived it. He shared details from his life on that frightening day. I was also in New Zealand at the time but just missed the quake because I had headed North to Wellington. That was a difficult day for many people.
I’m not sure why these moments, call them coincidences or whatever, happen on the Camino. I feel like I made some new Camino friends today and I’m beyond thankful for their kindness and vulnerability in sharing a piece of their lives with me. From the inspiring Italian guys to two very kind souls from New Zealand. I had wonderful connection with everyone. Who knows, maybe I’ll get to introduce the Kiwis to each other tomorrow along the way. Wouldn’t that be fun!
Goodnight and much love & gratitude from Spain! 🇪🇸
PS: if you want to watch a fantastic, but tearjerker of a documentary about a beautiful friendship on the Camino, check out I’ll Push You. But bring a box of tissues.
Scenes from Day 35
In the one cafe along the way, they served two mini croissants and a shot of orange juice with the coffee…free of charge. What a lovely treat………..after walking in the rain.
Louise and Milena joined in on the TMS (traffic mirror selfie) fun. This was a wild one. A mirror within a mirror and it was cracked so my head looks like that scene in Beetlejuice. Bonkers.
Sometimes they use old bed frames as gates.
Banana slugs are everywhere.
