“Shitty service means you’re somewhere amazing.” – Squint (my best friend) replying to my text apologizing for not responding sooner due to “shitty cellphone reception.”
Squint is right, I was somewhere amazing.
Stephen took me to Curlewis, the town where he grew up, to meet his family and friends. It’s a tiny village of about 600 people outside of a larger town called Gunnedah (which is easier to find on the map).
I feel like I’m his show-and-tell project given that I am the first pilgrim to visit. Like I’m some sort of proof that he has actually walked these Caminos and didn’t just pull photos off the internet.
The area reminded me quite a bit of the Midwest in America where I grew up. The region is mainly known for farming and the people are the salt of the earth. They are what truly makes the place special…much like the Midwest.
The Mayor
Our first stop after the four-plus hour drive from Yamba was to Stephen’s dad’s house. When I met Phillip I was gobsmacked. Minus a little difference in height and current hair color, they are a carbon copy of each other. Same facial features, hands, legs, feet, heck they were even wearing matching outfits of bright blue shirts with navy shorts when we arrived. It was weird, to say the least. I joked that I didn’t know if I could handle two Stephens in this world but I was assured they have different temperaments. ha!
Stephen was not happy that I made them take this photo just before we left but Phillip didn’t seem to mind.
Phillip or as many people call him, The Mayor, is one of the kindest and most jovial people I’ve ever met. Note for all the single ladies of a more seasoned age, this guy is a catch. He cooks, bakes, and even does canning! He made a fruitcake before we arrived and a zucchini quiche while we were there and he sent me home with some of his homemade fig jam and pickles. I was impressed.
He is not only good in the kitchen but he cleans too. His house was pretty much spotless upon our arrival. The house cleaner comes once every two weeks and she was arriving the following day, which tells me it was the end of the cycle but you’d think the house had just been cleaned. He even does the laundry and hangs it out on the line to dry.
Aside from his living habits, he loves to travel and is very family oriented. He can tell you about each of his kids, grandkids, great-grandkids, and all of their partners, where they live, when their birthdays are, what they do for a living, etc. Someone in the family joked that he probably knows the color of everyone’s undies. He is that involved – in a good way. He is extremely proud of all of them and seems to let them be themselves without judgment. It’s refreshing to be around someone like Phillip. Plus, he just came back from a cruise to Fiji by himself. He showed me all the photos. Adorable.
For an 83-year-old Patriarch of the family, he is pretty inspiring. Even after the loss of his wife Unice ten years ago, who he spoke very highly of, he is a go-getter and keeps himself involved. Most older men that I know, wait for the younger generations to come to them, but not The Mayor, he makes an effort. It’s really wonderful to witness his love for all of them.
Phillip was a wonderful host and took us on a few fun adventures during our visit. He was a butcher by trade, taking over his father’s business in Curlewis. So every Tuesday (when he isn’t traveling) he still goes to the morning Cattle Sale in Gunneduh. I hadn’t been to one of these since I was a little girl with my great-grandfather, Alva. It was a trip down memory lane…and a reminder to avoid these types of events otherwise I’ll become vegetarian (and I can’t do that because of a health issue). Those little calves were crying and missing their mamas. Ugh, heartbreaking.
After the sale, he took us to his local coffee club that meets every Tuesday and Friday morning at 9 am, sharp – don’t be late. They have about 20 or so retired businessmen who gather to catch up and discuss the local happenings. And if you don’t let someone know you are not going to be there, they send out the SOS alert…age and health are top of mind with this group if you know what I mean.
They were a great bunch of guys and I was honored to be there since females aren’t usually allowed. I got to spend a little time talking with several of them and found out that this group of men is what made up the foundation of the community back in the day. I met several farmers, businessmen, electricians, a pharmacist, a plumber, and a health inspector. They don’t call it “The Table of Knowledge” for nothing.
A few of them had been to America. So we swapped stories about traveling. One of the guys had been recruited to play cricket on Staten Island, NY in 1965. WOW! Another had been to Tennessee, Virginia, and West Virginia.
On another day, Phillip took me out to visit and feed his cows. He has 40 acres on the edge of town and has seven cows (plus some newborn calves) he keeps “just for something to do.” Jokes were made that he was preparing me for the Australian reality TV show, “Farmer Wants A Wife.”
The Family
In addition to spending time with Stephen’s dad, I got to meet his two sisters, Linda and Donna, and their husbands Gary and Greg, who goes by the nickname Macka. I met one of Donna and Macka’s sons, Brendan, who is an EMT and IT for the entire family. Ben and Trish who are first cousins and live on a farm just outside of town, and their son Sam. And I will never forget The Dude as I call him, Phillip’s youngest brother Chris and his daughter Georgina who is about my age. Obviously, I didn’t get to meet everyone as many of the younger generations have moved to other cities but everyone I did meet was absolutely lovely which made me ask, where the heck did Stephen come from? (kidding)
His sisters hosted us for lunches, dinners, and teas as did his cousins Ben and Trish. We spent time swapping “Stephen stories” and little fun facts about our lives and travels. It’s always fun to be a foreigner because the conversations are always interesting. I feel like I learn so much when I travel and get an opportunity to meet the locals.
While we were at Trish and Ben’s house, I learned about the area where they live which has a unique ecosystem with an endorheic lake (Lake Goran). At the moment, the lake is full. But in another couple of years, it will be bone dry and they will farm it. The lake fills every 15 or 20 years for anywhere from 2-5 years. So when it is full, they swim, kayak, and waterski on it. I had no idea this type of thing existed but now I do. When the lake is full, new wildlife will start to pop up, especially birds. Pelicans will fly there to lay their eggs and the lake will eventually fill up with fish. Bizarre but apparently it’s been happening for eons.
Trish and Ben have also been to the Midwest so it was interesting to hear their perspective of America. They visited the John Deere headquarters in Illinois and traveled around Illinois, Iowa, and Wisconsin. Ben said the Midwest is full of nice people and he really felt welcome. I could say the same for this visit.
The Dude
I cannot finish this post without mentioning The Dude, Uncle Chris. This guy was hilarious and reminded me of so many farmers I grew up around during my childhood. He is not only a farmer but a beekeeper. He has the funniest (and most politically incorrect) sense of humor.
We all piled in his truck, and when I say pile, I had to sit in the middle with my feet on the seat to squeeze in and avoid the gear shifter on the floor.
He drove us all over his property, which was packed with RVs and campervans because every year over Easter weekend he hosts a three-day concert festival with local Australian talent. People camp for two weeks prior just to get a good spot. It’s called the Hartwood Festival – Campfires and Country Music, you can check it out, here.
We drove to see the bee boxes, check on the cattle, and make sure his solar-powered water pump was working for the cows. He has blended his farm nicely with old and new technology.
I know most people love the beach photos of Australia but the countryside is just as amazing. Not to mention the area is full of interesting and kind people. I feel extremely lucky to have met a pilgrim from Australia who is so eager to show me around. When I was here 12 years ago, I mainly toured the coast so this has been a welcomed adventure to see places that most tourists will never visit. I cannot thank Stephen’s family and friends enough for their warmth, kindness, and hospitality during my visit. I was happy to disconnect from the cell reception and truly be in the moment.
Goodnight and much love from Australia! 🇦🇺
PS: The photo below of the koala hanging on the sign was taken by Stephen’s cousin Trish. I saw it on the wall in her dining room and she told me the story of seeing it and running home to get the camera. While I was in town I saw it on a postcard so I had to buy it as a souvenir!
