“Fear is nothing more than an obstacle that stands in the way of progress. In overcoming our fears, we can move forward, stronger and wiser within ourselves.” – Internet Meme
Warning: this is a long one but certainly worth the read. So many fun twists and turns in today’s adventure.
Wowza! What a day. I can definitely say, this Camino is like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. As I posted in yesterday’s update, it’s too early to tell why all this stuff is happening…maybe good, maybe bad, or just maybe. Who knows.
I woke up super early after a goodnight’s sleep and a rest day. My foot was sore but walkable, or so I thought. My goal was to walk the 20 km (12.5 miles) to the next big city – there was nothing much in between so once I started, I really couldn’t stop.
I took off about 7 am (I couldn’t checkout before then). The weather was beautiful, the sun was coming up and casting a beautiful light on the farm fields. I was listening to some music. It was really enjoyable.
There was a tiny cafe about 3 km into the walk. It would be the only option for the entire day, so I made sure to stop. I’m so glad I did. I met the loveliest couple who ran the place. It appeared they had owned it for a long time. The menu was still handwritten on the wall.
I spoke what little Portuguese I know to order an espresso and one Pasteis de Nata (traditional – and homemade – Portuguese custard tart).
Several farmers came in and out to grab a coffee and get the latest gossip happening in this one-horse town. Everyone was so kind and pleasant. The locals are really welcoming. I love interacting with them.
After this delightful encounter, the long gravel road awaited my sneakers and hiking sticks. Between the cafe and the final destination was nothing but 16 km of farmland (and wildflowers). And just when I thought that all I would be staring at is tomato plants, bamboo, and grape vines, I stumbled upon some of the happiest guys I’ve ever met.
Migrant workers from Pakistan.
These guys were on break as I was walking by and they were excited to meet me. They shared with me a little bit about their lives. The guy next to me in the checkered shirt has a girlfriend named Lisa who lives in NYC and he is going to visit soon. He is over the moon to go to America.
I mean, these guys couldn’t stop smiling when we talked. They told me how much they like their jobs and Portugal. They seemed to be sincerely filled with gratitude. They are cutting broccoli at the moment and said it’s hard work but rewarding. They were really kind to me and even gave me a banana before I left.
I walked on for quite a distance and then…I stopped to take just a tiny break under a tree and when I went to carry on, about 50 meters onto the trail my foot was screaming at me.
I ONLY HAD 2 KM (1.2 miles) TO GO!!!! Dammit!
The blisters were back with a vengeance. I found a concrete ledge to sit on, took off my shoe and sock (right foot only, the left is fine, weird) next to a gravel road. The pain was too great though. I couldn’t do it. So I took a deep breath and said a prayer. “Universe/God, I need help. I’m in the middle of nowhere and I don’t know what to do.”
All of a sudden a little white Suzuki Trooper-style truck pulls up (I didn’t even hear or see her coming) and a woman rolls down the window and starts hollering at me in Portuguese. I have no idea what she is saying. She gets out of the car, comes over, looks at my foot, and motions me to get in the car. But before I can get in, she has to move ALL of her groceries to the back. I did help her, of course. But this woman is in the middle of an errand and she had freezer stuff in the bags, I saw it with my own eyes. She is going to help me and let her frozen fish sticks and ice cream melt. God bless her…and her fish sticks.
I got in. We had to turn the car around because she was actually headed in the opposite direction. She had just come from the city I was walking to, Santarem.
She called some places looking for a doctor but had no such luck. I told her to take me to “my” hostel. This was a lie. I didn’t have a bed booked for the night. Every place I called said they were full. So I picked a random one on google maps and had her drop me there. I didn’t want to make her drive me around any longer than necessary. I mean, think of the fish sticks!
Just before I got out of the car, I asked her name and if we could take a photo.
Emilia (my name in Portuguese) said yes. ❤️
This reminds me of the old story about a man and three boats. A guy is drowning in the water and a boat comes by and offers help, but the man says, “No God will save me.” Two more boats come by and he says the same thing. Then he dies and goes to heaven and asks “God, why didn’t you save me?” And God said, “I sent you three boats you dummy.”
Emilia was my boat. 🙏
The hostel wasn’t going to open until 3 pm and it was only noon so I went to the café next door. This is where I met Orlando. Orlando was the next Trail Angel I encountered. I ordered a sparkling water and asked about a walk-in medical center. He spoke perfect English and was happy to help. He said helping people is one of his favorite things in life. So he called the medical office and asked if they would take a tourist from America who was walking the Camino. Yes they would. Then he called a taxi, walked out to tell the driver the exact address and I was off.
At the medical office, the woman was friendly enough and spoke a tiny bit of English so she understood who I was. She took down my passport details and told me to wait. While I waited, a woman came into the room and sat across from me and her shirt said, “Everything is good.” Yes, yes, it is ma’am.
After about 20/30 minutes, a nurse, Dr. Dina as I called her, came to get me. She looked me over and said, “The foot is not infected, I did a good job cleaning it, but it does need at least two days of rest…no walking!” Then she put a medicated pad on it and taped it up. She put the name of an antibiotic cream that I could pick up in the pharmacy into the notes app on my phone. She said to apply it every 8 hours to help the healing process move along a little quicker.
I asked her what I owed for the visit.
Nothing. €0.00. $0.00.
Then she called me a taxi.
What? What just happened?
I was back at the hostel by 2 pm. The entire round trip taxi ride and visit to the clinic was only an hour and a half. Amazing! ❤️
Now for the next challenge. I didn’t have a bed for the night. Every place was booked. Or so they said on the phone. I did look at the options in the next town and there were a few rooms if I was desperate. I could grab a cab and stay there. But I’m trying to face my fears head-on of not knowing the future and trying to control everything. You know, leaving a little room for magical encounters. A big fear on the Camino is not getting a bed. So in the morning when I started walking, I told myself that I would manage this situation calmly and I didn’t need to fear it. I just needed to be open to all possibilities.
So when Lucia (her name means light) said she was out of beds. I told her my story of woe with my foot…and maybe gave her some sad puppy dog eyes. She relented and said she had two beds left and she saves them for situations just like this.
Ta-da, I have a bed for tonight and she is even letting me stay for two nights. Doctors orders. I have to check out for a few hours and recheck in but my name is on the list.
I have one more story (warning: it will pull at your heartstrings) and then I’ll wrap this up.
After the pharmacy, I popped into the grocery store to get some food so I wouldn’t have to go out for dinner and rest instead.
In Europe, buying fruits and vegetables from the bins is just a little bit different. In the States, the cashier weighs and rings up the cost but in Europe, you use the scale yourself and they have codes on the signs to type into the machine. Well this particular store didn’t seem to have a consistent coding method and I was confused so I tapped a young woman, probably in her 30s, on the shoulder and asked if she spoke English. She did and we went through the whole rigamaroo about the system. At one point she softly said, “I don’t speak Portuguese, I’m not from here, I’m from Ukraine.” My heart immediately sank. She told me she had been in Santarem for a year and deeply missed her life. The war had separated her family, she missed her friends and her job, etc. We both started crying right there next to the cucumbers and red peppers. I didn’t know what to say. I honestly can’t imagine what she has experienced, but I told her I’d be thinking of her and dedicate my Camino to her with the hope that she can go home soon. Please keep Mira, her family, her friends, and all the refugees in your thoughts. 🇺🇦
……
Today was a wild one but I kept my composure, didn’t freak out and it all worked out…with the help of some amazing Trail Angels. Buen Camino!
Oh! Guess who is sleeping in my room tonight? Gisella, the French woman I hiked with on the first day! The Camino is one big game of leapfrog.
Goodnight and much love from Portugal! 🇵🇹
Scenes from Day 5.
I’ve seen these frogs all over Portugal and just found out what they symbolize. People put them in front of their homes and businesses to ward off evil spirits. 🐸
It’s the beginning of FIG season! I love, love, love figs!
There are wildflowers everywhere! They make for a magical walk.
