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“I am not the same, having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.” Mary Anne Radmacher
After breakfast, George offered to drive us to the trailhead on his way to work.
I think he just wanted a little more time with Massimo.
The two of them were so deep in conversation (what a love connection those two have) that George drove right past the trailhead. He made the turn, kept talking, and just…kept driving.
I was following along on the map, watching the little blue dot move farther and farther away from where we were supposed to get out.
I wasn’t about to interrupt their conversation. If George wanted to accidentally shave a couple of kilometers off our hike, who was I to complain?
About 2.75 km later, George slowly pulled over, made a U-turn, and let us out.
He hugged and kissed us both goodbye and invited us (primarily Massimo) to come back and stay with him and Maria anytime.
He really was one of the kindest people we’ve met on the trail.
Choose your own adventure.
Today we had to make a decision about the route, Option A or B.
Route A is shorter distances per day but a longer route overall, and takes four days to complete.
Route B is longer distances per day, more asphalt and less nature, but only takes two days.
Most everyone chooses route A but we chose B to Petriș.
Rebels.
Considering we’ve already lost time because of the food poisoning episode and yesterday’s rain delay, it only makes sense for us to take the faster route. With Massimo needing to return to Italy on a schedule, every day matters. Taking the road less traveled seemed like our best chance to stay on pace.
Hopefully, it makes all the difference.
Team Sandals
Today was another milestone.
It was my very first day hiking in sandals.
Yes…I know exactly what they look like. Please don’t call the fashion police.
I’m fairly certain Anna Wintour is rolling her eyes and clutching her pearls somewhere.
When I completed my very first long-distance hike across Spain, I was in the middle of transitioning from corporate life to becoming a full-time nomad.
Back then, I spent my days wearing business suits, high heels, and making sure my toenails were perfectly manicured and painted. On that first hike I didn’t even want my hiking boots to get dirty, and the thought of sweating and not having fresh laundered clothes sounded completely unacceptable.
Fast forward a few years…
Now I’m hiking in clothes that haven’t been washed for three days and trudging through mud in sandals with what Massimo humorously calls “naked feet.” I’m petting cows, eating roadside fruit straight from the trees and/or the ground, and, thanks to a recently acquired female urination device, even peeing while standing up in the middle of nature.
Who have I become?
Honestly, I don’t even recognize myself sometimes.
And strangely…I kind of love her.
I will say, Team Sandals is pretty great. I probably should have joined the team sooner.
Pros:
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Cooler feet
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More cushioning
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Lighter, more comfortable steps
Cons:
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My feet are beginning to resemble the trail. They’re dry, dusty, and filthy.
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My backpack is heavier because I’m carrying my boots instead.
Every choice has its price.
The hike itself seemed to fly by today – especially with the head start that George provided us. It was fairly easy as well – no big climbs and plenty of paved roads and beautiful trails through some thick forests. The weather was perfect – partly cloudy, no wind, and cooler temperatures.
All in all, a great day!
We arrived around 2:30 in the afternoon to the accommodation. We had plenty of time to shower and relax before dinner.
One of today’s most interesting moments came during a stop at a rest area.
In the middle of a field stood a massive concrete sundial.
A local man sitting there with his family explained that the large circular concrete platforms nearby had once served as helicopter landing pads for Nicolae Ceaușescu, Romania’s Communist dictator. According to him, Ceaușescu would fly into the area to observe, and hunt bears.
The man’s accent was quite thick, so when he first mentioned Ceaușescu’s name, I asked,
“Who did you say?”
He replied matter-of-factly,
“You know…the former dictator of Romania. We killed him on the 25th of December. A Christmas gift to the country.”
Whoa. His comment caught me off guard and made me think of Bobe and his personal experience.
Of course, that was one man’s perspective.
Later, I read that while many Romanians suffered greatly under Ceaușescu’s regime, a 2018 public opinion poll found that a surprising number of Romanians viewed his rule positively. Mind blowing.
History and life are rarely as simple as we’d like it to be.
The more I travel, the more I realize how complicated every country’s story is.
Tonight we’re staying with another wonderful family who has opened their home to Via Transilvanica hikers.
The youngest son, Hory (short for Horatio), is twenty years old and took wonderful care of us. He handled all of the reservations, showed us around the property, settled us into our room, and spent much of the afternoon answering my endless questions about life in Romania.
His mother, Getta (pronounced Jetta), is the powerhouse of the family.
She manages nearly everything on their small farm tending the vegetable gardens, caring for the cows, pigs, chickens, horses, and dogs, while also preparing every meal from scratch.
We didn’t get to meet Hory’s father, who works as a carpenter and was away on the job during our stay.
Although the property isn’t large, they’ve created an impressively self-sufficient little homestead right in the middle of town. Every square foot serves a purpose.
We ate dinner outside on the patio.
Throughout the meal I kept hearing pigs. and, let’s be honest, smelling them too.
Finally, curiosity got the better of me.
“Where are all the animals?” I asked.
Hory smiled, walked over to a brown wooden door beside the kitchen, opened it, and casually replied,
“Right here.”
The pig stalls are literally attached to the house, with the barn door opening directly into the common area.
Talk about farm-to-table.
Dinner consisted of a hearty vegetable and sausage soup followed by couscous with pork.
Hory explained that the pork came from a pig the family had butchered over the winter.
The family dogs, Daisy and Mini, love to sit on the laps of visitors.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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As for Massimo.
He may look like a grown man but in his heart, he is forever a young boy.
“Take my photo so it looks like I’m peeing.”
Tiny plums – so sweet and juicy.
Bear Stands – similar to deer stands back home. Wooden observation towers to get a better look at the bears and the landscape.
We climbed one of the newer models.
