“The longer you have to wait for something, the more you will appreciate it when it arrives.” Unknown
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In Switzerland of all places, I did not think I would have any delays. Aren’t they the international time keepers, or something? This trip is off to a funky start. First not bringing my jacket and now, I’m starting my hike a day later than expected. It’s not a big deal, it’s not like I have any place to be, but I did need to adjust my accommodation reservations for the next few days. Which meant speaking broken Italian to some nuns I’ll be staying with in a few days. It was difficult enough just booking the room, let alone changing the reservation. Thank goodness they have the patience of a saint!
After a minor train delay on one of the stops from Geneva, I still made it on time to the second train and both buses, to arrive at Great St. Bernard Pass.
The place is STUNNING.
These photos were taken less than five minutes of stepping off the bus.
As I mentioned in the blog post with the packing list, Great St. Bernard Pass is the highest point on the trail. The people who live up here year round, like the monks and staff at the monastery, use snow skis to get around in the winter, once access for cars is not allowed due to the snow. That means they must plan far in advance for food and other necessities.
After taking a few photos of the area, I checked in at the monastery, Great St. Bernard Hospice, where I was planning to stay only one night but after checking the weather, it will be two.
Here is a peek at the dorm room. Remember, this is a pilgrimage so minimalism is the name of the game.
First one to arrive gets to pick the best bed! Don’t mind if I do snag the solo bed in the back corner with the only electrical outlet other than the one near the door. Feeling lucky already.
The weather was beautiful so I spent time outside and grabbed some lunch, a bowl of soup and a chunk of cheese, at the little restaurant connected to the monastery.
The weather started changing fast in the afternoon and by 5 pm the fog had rolled in and the place was a complete white-out. I’m very glad I took those photos when I first arrived – otherwise I would have never seen the view.
When I woke up the next morning, I looked out the window it was completely foggy and rainy, with a few snow flurries. I went back to sleep. I will not be starting my hike on the original day, thank you very much. I didn’t travel this far to not have a view on my way down.
Here is a comparison shot from the same spot, the day I arrived vs. the next morning.
There is a reason this place is called Great St. Bernard Pass and it’s because of these guys! 🐾❤️ This is Baltic. She was born Nov. 9, 2019.
Since I had a “day off”, what better way to spend it than playing with some big, adorable dogs. Across the road from the monastery is the Grand St.Bernard Hospice museum. The dogs are typically outside but since the weather was so bad they were in their kennels.
The museum was small but had some great information about the history of the “town” and the dogs and the operation of the facility.
A few fun facts:
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Monks at the Great St. Bernard Hospice, founded in the 11th century, began breeding large, strong dogs in the 17th century to help them rescue pilgrims crossing the dangerous mountain pass between Switzerland and Italy.
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The dogs never carried those barrels around their necks. That’s a myth.
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The most famous St. Bernard was Barry, who reportedly saved 40+ people during his life (early 1800s). He’s a national hero and has a dedicated monument in the Natural History Museum of Bern. The Barry Foundation operates the facility.
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Today, they bred around 25 puppies a year.
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Every summer the Barry Foundation offers a free three-hour hike in the mountains and a training session with locals who have St. Bernard’s.
After playing with the pups and touring the museum, I walked to Italy to have lunch. Hilarious, right? On the other side of the lake, about a five-ten minute walk, is the border to Italy.
Someone told me the food was better and cheaper across the border. So I weathered the storm for some spaghetti bolognese, red wine, and a macchiato at Bar Ristorante Du Lac. Italian style. It turned out to be my first and only meal of the day. It was filling to say the least and I didn’t even eat all of it.
Overall it was nice to have an extra day here in the mountains. I got a lot of writing accomplished and I feel rested for the hike!
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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I saw snow on my way to the top!
When in Switzerland, one must purchase a Swiss Army knife.
