Original post was written July 2022.
My 90 days are about up and I’m leaving Europe and heading back to Kansas City. Sad face. Americans are only allowed to stay in the EU for 90 days in a 180 day window without a visa. Which is why I go back and forth instead of just staying for a long time. Getting a Visa appears to be a real headache and something I’m not ready to commit to just yet.
So, here are a few observations, experiences and things I learned during my time this year and last in Florence. I could write for days about all the things I’ve learned, but I won’t because it might possibly bore you so here are some highlights…and some might even be useful.
Sophia Loren’s restaurant in has the best pizza in town. I know, I know, it would seem like just a tourist restaurant being that it’s located near the Duomo and the Hard Rock Cafe but it is amazing. They also make lovely salads, tiramisu and the espresso is perfect.❤️ If you decide to dine in or have a coffee at the bar, definitely check out the restroom to see the golden toilet brush.😉
Dogs are allowed in shopping malls. It’s brilliant! 🐕
Bricoman’s is the popular hardware store here. This is interesting to me because I grew up in a family business that was a lumber yard & hardware store. It’s similar to Home Depot…the color scheme is even the same. They have a café inside the store because Italians love their espresso so much they need it while shopping for lumber and paint. ☕️ I mean, it was the first time I’ve ever had an espresso shot while shopping for power tools.
A few months ago I was talking with my friend Tom at the gym about Italy and he asked why Italians drink a shot of espresso while standing at the bar. Answer according to Luca: The price. If you drink the shot while standing at the bar it’s cheaper than sitting at a table. Example: let’s say it’s 1.50€ at the bar. If you drink the same shot while sitting at a table inside, it’s 2.50€ and if you drink it while sitting at a table outside, it’s 3.50€. Real estate is expensive, baby.
Speaking of coffee….Don’t ever ask for a cappuccino after 10am or you will get the evil eye. Which I actually find quite comical so I order them regularly and it drives Luca bonkers. He frequently gives me the Italian eye roll. 🙄 But hey, I don’t believe in following a set of arbitrary rules if it’s something I really enjoy…like milk with my espresso. I am who I am and your ancient history and culture rituals are not going to persuade me. ☕️
The Florentine steak is nice…but I mean, come on, KC & NYC cuts of meat are tough to compete with. Luca and Sabine said the steaks I cooked for them tasted better and since I’m a competitive American, I will accept the compliment. The secret is really the marinade. But hands down the Italians obviously win the game of pizza and pasta…especially with a nice truffle sauce.
The best gelato in Florence (according to Luca and I would agree – I tried several) is called La Carraia (but only the store near the Ponte alla Carraia bridge). My favorite is the Cioccolato all’arancio otherwise known as orange chocolate. O.M.G. To die for. 🧡 http://www.lacarraiagroup.eu/eng/
Most homes don’t have A/C and with this heat, it was miserable to try to sleep or eat during this trip – but I did seem to gain back a few pounds I had lost on the Camino…hmmmm. It’s gotta be the carbs. The temperature ranged between 97° to 102° F while I was here. 🥵 We even went to a mall one day (the 102° day & where I fell I love with all the dogs) to just sit inside and relax, but the A/C was nothing compared to the US. Which is also a running joke here – Americans are using up all the resources with their cooling units and multiple daily showers. Last year, I was here in September and it was almost perfect weather the entire time.
The mosquitoes are relentless (even in September). I wore (natural ingredient) bug spray all day, reapplying several times throughout the day and always before I went to bed at night…it barely helped. These little guys will find you and eat you. I’m still covered in bites. 😠
There are alters/shrines on many of the street corners, also because of the Black Plague. People weren’t allowed to go into the churches so they would stop on the corner to pray in the open air. Is history really always repeating itself?
On the ground outside of Dante’s house is a stone with a carving of his face on it. I took this photo last year when it rained and it was really visible.
Kansas City has a similar Wild Boar statue on the Country Club Plaza that is located in the marketplace in Florence. Make sure to rub the snout to ensure your return to Florence…or to KC for that matter.
The little wine doors from when the Black Plague was happening still exist. And they even use some of them. I haven’t been so lucky to find the ones in operation but I also didn’t look that hard. Next time.🍷
There is a carving of a man’s face on a Stonewall near the Ufizzi museum. Luca told me that the legend says Michelangelo carved it behind his back (no looksy) with a tool while talking to someone. *Luca showed me tons of these little hidden gems around the city. Too many to write about on here though.
The little coffee pot is called a Moka (we call it a percolator in the US). This red one is mine that I purchased during my visit last year. I love it and still use it everyday back in the States.
I’ve included a photo of the apartment I rented last year above the Hard Rock Cafe on Via dei Brunelleschi – the road is named after the guy who designed the dome on the Duomo. Genius. Sophia’s place is also located on the same street.
I love all the art that is on the electrical boxes and doors around the city. ❤️
The author of Pinocchio was from Florence…and the original story ain’t pretty. https://www.theflorentine.net/2006/05/18/who-is-pinocchio/
We ate a lot of tomatoes, mozzarella, olives, arugula and olive oil. Wow.
There are drinking (and some people use them for bathing) fountains everywhere.
The land next to the Arno River is all privately owned and not open to the public. 😔 Boo.
If you are ever in Florence and want to hire a loca to show you around, especially one who specializes in Leonardo Da Vinci history with stops at gelato shops, Luca would be the guy to call. I can connect you directly. Shoot me a message.
The one experience I still haven’t had in Italy that I would really like to try is, truffle hunting with the dogs…I mean I wish they still used pigs but I don’t think that is a thing anymore. So I have another reason to return…which means I’ll be back…and because I did rub the snout of the wild boar.
Goodnight and much love from Italy. 🇮🇹
