Day 38 El Camino de Norte

Day 38 El Camino de Norte, El Camino del Norte (photo 10)

“The goal for all of us is to keep growing out of ourselves and evolving into our best possible lives….We must grow out of and into ourselves, again and again.” – Oprah (heard on a podcast during today’s walk) 

Today’s walk was beautiful. Cool and foggy in the morning and then blazing hot when the big ball of fire broke through the clouds. I walked alone for awhile in the morning and then Jakob and Caroline caught up with me. I’m very slow now because of the tendinitis or whatever is going on with the spot above my ankle on my right leg. These two crack me up. Caroline has the best sense of humor and is so authentic and comfortable in her own skin. Jakob is a little more reserved and has the biggest heart. I really enjoy their company and they are two of my favorite people on the Camino. Jakob turned 30 in May and Caroline is 27, she’ll be 28 on June 30th. He works for the University in Copenhagen in the organic farming division of the college and she works with young children. They have dated for four years and are literally the yin and yang to each other. The stories they tell about conflict resolution in their relationship is really incredible for such young people. I’ve learned quite a bit from them about partnership and life in Denmark. 

Everyone from the group took turns walking with me today. I think they must feel a little sorry for me because I am so slow…almost limping on my right leg. Ugh. Only three more days…I can do it! They also took very good care of me this evening at the monastery. Stephen got me ice and did the laundry.  Hallelujah! Hyekyung, Dora and Yunri made a Korean dinner for everyone. It was amazing! They even kept a portion out for me that was not spicy…I’m a wimp when it comes to hot spices. Plus, they made a vegetarian version for Jakob and Caroline. This group is really kind and thoughtful. 

Jakob made one of my dreams come true today. I keep meaning to buy carrots to carry with me to feed the horses, but I always forget. Today we came across a field with the most beautiful horses I’ve seen on the trail. Jakob had an entire package of organic carrots and let us have all of them to feed the horses. It was fantastic! 

My latest party trick might just be the most embarrassing of any story I have in my repertoire from the last 43 years. I’m the queen of embarrassing moves but this clears the chess board. Here we go…our group is now officially seven people. Stephen, Dora, Hyekyung, Yunri, Jakob, Caroline and me. In an effort to stay together at the same place, we’ve been booking the hostels in advance. We knew we wanted to stay in the monastery on Sobrado. The one Mattia left me a message about. Anyhoo, I’ve been knighted the designated reservation maker since I speak the most Spanish, which ain’t saying much, folks. But I feel I do it with gusto and confidence so that’s gotta count for something. Dora found the phone number so we used her phone which has a number from Ireland, because most recently she was living there as an Au Pair. We called twice but no answer. The monastery called us back and she handed me the phone before answering. Well, the man on the other end spoke perfect English because he was from London, England. He recognized the Irish prefix so he didn’t even try to speak Spanish with me. And let me tell you, he had the most beautiful voice. He sounded a little bit like Sir Ian McKellen. Very distinguished, perfect British annunciation, and a little deep. It was well to put it mildly, attractive. I’m a sucker for a good, strong voice. We discussed the reservation stuff, blah, blah. Then I told him I loved his voice and could listen to him speak all day. Everyone in my crew burst out laughing. I had no shame at this point. It was true. He kindly accepted the compliment and said he would see us tomorrow but sadly, they don’t take reservations. It’s first come first serve…but it shouldn’t be a problem because they have 98 beds. “Great!” So we (Hyekyung and I) went ahead and shipped our backpacks (mine included Stephen’s non-cheating toiletry bag & Dora’s hairdryer) trusting there would be a place for us. Well, when we (Stephen and I – the others got there well in advance) arrived we were checked in by the guy that Mattia gave me the heads up about…his description was accurate. I asked where Lawrence (the man with the good voice) was and was told he was on a break but would be back to show us to our rooms. “Oh goodie,”  I thought, “I’ll get to meet the mystery man behind the sexy phone voice.” A few minutes later, a nice man walks into the reception area and says, “hello, I’m Lawrence.” Stephen bursts out laughing. I politely said (to distract from the laughter), “oh, so nice to meet you, we spoke on the phone yesterday.” Then he said, “ah yes, I remember, you told me I have a lovely voice.” “I still think that, I’d let you read audiobooks to me all day long,” I replied. He joked, “does it pay well, because this gig doesn’t pay crap.” Guys, he came out wearing a robe and beads. He is a monk. I was flirting over the phone with a monk. Dear Lord, forgive me for my sins. (*Makes sign of the cross) O.M.G. I’m sure this is a double whammy for a non-practicing, defunct Catholic. Do you think this is a mortal or venial sin? Am I going straight to hell? Good thing I’m still three days away from Santiago and this is a holy year so I still have time to be absolved of all my sins. 

He was a good sport about it. He made another joke about why he had such a good voice and pulled a pack of Chesterfields out of his pocket. Hahaha! Gotta love a monk who digs the cigs. 🚬 

As we entered Sobrado, there was a spring fed water fountain on the main road. I did not care what anyone thought (and believe me, the locals laughed) and stripped off my socks and shoes and jumped in. It felt so good on my leg. It was a much needed ice cold bath.

I found my version of Wilson from Cast Away in a pinecone. 🏐 

Jakob and Caroline are hauling around an actual kitchen pantry in their backpack. The selection includes, ketchup, olive oil, salt/pepper packets, dry lentils, aioli sauce, a red onion and an egg sandwich. Plus, the organic carrots we fed to the horses. I think this might be more crazy than the selfie sticks and hairdryer.

I drank my first coca-cola in two weeks today. I’ve been trying to eat and drink healthier to take full advantage of the physicality of this Camino. I was so hot and in so much pain, I needed some enjoyment. An ice cold coke hit the spot. But Wowza it was sweet…and delicious. It’s amazing how much your tastebuds change. I rarely drink soda back home but on the Camino it’s usually a staple along with Aquarius (Spain’s Gatorade). 

Hyekyung was getting everyone to try her “naked hot dogs” on one of the breaks today. A cold hot dog, straight out of the package with a piece of cheese wrapped around it. I told her it’s really not naked but in a blanket. She is crazy and is definitely the wild one in this bunch of weirdos. 

Yunri taught Stephen how to play a Korean game called Omok. They are playing on paper instead of with stones. Resources are limited out here. It’s like tic-tac-toe but it has something to do with getting 5 in a row. Anyway, he finally beat her today for the first time and jumped out of his chair like a kid who just won his first trophy. He high-fived everyone…even strangers. Then he told me he is never playing her again because he’s “going out in a high note.” 🤦‍♀️ https://www.counton.org/how-to-play/how-to-play-omok/ 

Yunri was drinking a beer and eating a pear. I found this to be an odd combo but she said it was good. 

The rooms in the monastery have air conditioning. Ahhh. A luxury on the Camino. 

The monk in the gift shop gave me a postcard for free instead of charging me 1€. I started to pay for it and he winked and waved me on. Is this adding to my collection of sin debt or is this like a get out of jail free card? 

Miraz – Sobrado dos Monxes – 25.3km

Goodnight and much love from Spain. 

Emily

P.S. Any typos are complimentary.