“I just want to go on more adventures. Be around good energy. Connect with people. Learn new things. Grow.” – random Instagram post
Today was a bizarre hike. Lots of arrows and most of them did not match with the map. Many pilgrims were confused but the locals didn’t stop us so we took that as a sign. I think we spent more time off the official path then on it. I don’t know if they are altering the route (this does happen) or if some local kids were having fun with a can of yellow spray paint. We walked all over Timbuktu…but as always, we ended up where we needed to be. A few steps closer to Santiago.
Lost is now a perpetual state of being for me.
I was outnumbered for part of the day today. Three new Aussies and a Kiwi. That’s a lot of Down Under, mate.
You know when someone special blows into your life and it feels like a sunny day or a breath of fresh air? Jose Manuel was that man for me today. We had just taken a break in one of the towns and the hill to climb out of the city limits was huge. Basically straight up. I caught up to an older gentleman on his morning walk. I said, “Hola, beunos dias.” He looked at me and had the biggest, brightest smile while he returned pleasantries. We started talking and his English was great for a guy his age. Which happened to be one of the first things he told me. He turned 79 in February and is super excited to be turning 80 next year. He said, “I was born February 2, 1943 and I’ve had a great life. I am happy.” Ah, melt my heart. His good vibe was enveloping me as we walked and talked. I learned more from him in 30 minutes about this particular region of Spain, Asturias, than I ever could from a guidebook.
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We walked by a herd of cattle and he was telling me that this particular breed (I’ve been posting photos of them) almost went extinct in the 70’s. It’s not a very profitable breed of cattle because it is used only for meat, they don’t produce much milk. The farmers wanted to raise a type of cow that was a bigger money maker. So in the 70’s there were only 3-4 farmers in the entire region with these cows. The government did a big ad campaign and offered supplement dollars to help save the industry. Wow.
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When he was 18, (1961) he started learning English. His town was pretty small. All his friends and neighbors told him he was an idiot for wasting his time. He said “it’s the language of the future.”
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In his younger years, he worked for Google (Earth) drawing buildings of their local town(s) for the online maps. It was before they used airplanes/drones for the aerial view photos.
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His grandson studied abroad in Austin, TX.
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Another pilgrim asked how he looks so good for 79. He looked maybe about 65. Flawless skin. He said, “I never smoked, instead of taking pills I walk 10-12k a day, I never hold on to anger, and I sing with my wife when we cook together.”
This guy was a walking billboard for how to succeed at life. He was optimistic and grateful for everything in life. It was so beautiful to connect with him. Definitely the highlight.
During our walk together, an Italian man, Mario, popped in between us to walk with us. I think he wanted to hear more about what Jose was telling me. They started discussing local cuisine and they said “almejas” but didn’t know how to tell me the translation in English. I said, “oh those are clams.” I’ve been using my Google translate app to read all the canned meats and fish in the grocery stores. I think it’s more important to know what you don’t like in this type of situation. So I know never to buy a can of “almejas”.
Anyway, they both looked at me and said, “no, I don’t think that is right.
Let us ask Google. It knows all.” My inner monologue: “ah yes, good to see that men questioning women when they don’t know the answer is universal.”
They came back with “yep, it’s clams.”
I smiled politely.
Mario is from Bergamo, Italy and works in banking. He study for a year at Columbia in NYC in 1996. He looked like a young Ernest Hemingway but with a gray beard. Today was his last day hiking but he will be back next year to finish in Santiago. I mentioned that I knew where Bergamo was because I hiked with a guy last year, Francesco, who is from there. He didn’t seem to think I knew what I was talking about. I said that Francesco had shown me photos and it was a beautiful city on a hill. “Oh yes,” he said in his Italian accent but still didn’t think I knew anything. I also happened to know that Sanpellegrino sparking water is from there. When I said that, he finally believed me that I knew a little of what I was talking about. Ha!
Third times a charm. For some reason, today was about men questioning my intelligence or knowledge of weird stuff. Andrew one of the Aussies and I were walking down the road and there was animal poop in the middle. He said, “looks like a deer was here or maybe a rabbit.” I said, “I think it’s from goats.” He said, “oh no, they don’t have goats up this far North.” We rounded the corner to find several goats eating grass near the road. Andrew looks at me and said, “wow, you really do know your animal shit.” “Yes, it’s one of my many hidden talents…identifying animal dung,” I replied. Good grief.
On the way out of Aviles, I played with the cutest little black dog named Lea. Dogs really do make everything better.
Whenever I complain about my knee, Stephen says “it’s because you’re middle aged Emily/Melanie.” Ummm, excuse me. I’m 28 and holding forever. I explained that one of my mantras is, “I am beautiful and timeless at all ages. I’m getting more beautiful by the moment.” That’s an affirmation that Jennifer Lopez says to herself. I liked it so much that I started saying it to myself. So far I think it’s working, at least in my head. My Shrink always told me, “Em, be careful what you say about yourself or even think about yourself because part of you is listening and responding.” Can we start a movement about practicing self love and kindness? I don’t think many people are aware of the benefits of this little practice.
I was outside after dark tonight, which is rare for me on the Camino, and snapped a beautiful photo of the backyard of the hostel.
I was sitting in the corner of the bar writing (nerd alert) while everyone else was drinking and chatting. Dora and Stephen tried to convince a nice, innocent girl from South Korea that I was a famous writer. They almost had her fooled. They even offered her an autograph. Jerks. The pranks are increasing.
My first Camino I was walking with a crew of 9 people and one of them put a big stone in my pack during a break. I knew as soon as I picked it up but they all took off so I carried the dang thing 5k and then made the culprit carry it the next 5k. We all took turns carrying it to Santiago and then to Finesterre (the end of the world), signed it in black marker and it’s in the cliff overlooking the ocean. We are there together for-ev-er.
Quote of the Day: Stephen in his Australian accent, “well would you look at this, somehow we’re not on the path, this map must be wrong.”
Second quote of the day: Stephen and I were discussing my love life…or lack there of. There is a cute guy at the hostel tonight. He was in the garden area doing push-ups…in a tank top. Tall with big muscles. I made the comment that he was attractive.
Stephen: “Melanie, you need to start assessing men financially.”
Me: “I’m financially independent. I don’t need or want a man for that.”
Stephen: “Well you need to become financially un-independent. Just get a bloke with a company card and you’ll be fine.”
To say Stephen is “old school” is an understatement. We argue about what is and isn’t women’s work on a daily basis. If his viewpoint wasn’t so illogical, I’d probably get angry. Instead it’s quite comical. Sometimes I think he just likes to try and push my buttons.
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Twenty minutes….no, thirty minutes later, we are still arguing about this topic.
Update: cute guy just came to my table to see what I was writing. He asked if he could read it. Obviously, I wouldn’t let him read this post given that I was just writing about him…ummm “it’s a work in progress.” So I let him read the post about the taxi ride back to get my stuff. He read it and, drum roll please, he was in the lobby when I frantically ran in to retrieve my stuff. He saw the whole episode unfold with his own eyes. Ha! We laughed and high-fived. Full circle.
Third quote of the day: Stephen: “Who is running this bloody place?” Referring to the hostel/restaurant. Me: “I have no idea.” Stephen: “I figured you’d know, you’re the bloody book writer in this group.”
Fourth quote of the day: Stephen: “I need to find a bank tomorrow. I’m out of cash.”
Me: “Do you need a loan? I have some extra cash. I’m financially independent, you know.”
Point for me. I love when life comes full circle.
Avilés – Muros de Nalón – 22.8km
I’m outta here.
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
