“Some people feel the rain. Others just get wet.” – Bob Marley
Buckle up, it’s another long one.
Well, we’ve knocked off about 261.4km (162 miles) minus all those “shortcuts” and only a boatload more to go…roughly 363 miles. It should take about 25 days…minus any shortcuts.
We are getting stronger and more physically fit so we are finishing much earlier in the day. We used to arrive about 2-3pm to our hostel and today we where there before noon. But we also only walked 15k (9.32 miles) and it was pretty flat. So it was a shorty with two long coffee breaks. We would have kept walking but it was recommended in all of our guidebooks that we stay at a particular Albergue to experience the true Pilgrim hospitality. They were spot on. More details to come.
Today was amazing. But first let me start with last night. There were 5 of us in a 6 person room and at least three, possibly 4 of the people were snoring like a band of kazoos. It made for a short night of sleep.
This morning started out good. We left a few minutes before 7am. The weather was cloudy and cool, again, perfect for hiking. We stopped at a café and had a nice coffee…no chocolate croissant. Sad face.
The first order of business today was to find the Swiss guy from yesterday…the one with the stink eye…to give him his towel that he left at the Albergue. I happened to notice he left it behind so I grabbed it before I walked out the door. I found him about 5km down the road. When I handed it to him he was embarrassed, smiled, bowed and said thank you. He still isn’t fond of me (we are in the same room again tonight) but whatever he’s got going on is not about me.
Camino – 5
Em – 3.5
There were many Pilgrim Powwows to discuss the route we would travel today. This particular trail has many alternative routes and it isn’t marked as well as the others.
It’s interesting to observe my own behavior over these three Camino’s. The first Camino in 2018, I remember being really nervous and had some anxiety about when to leave in the morning as to not be left behind, where to go for the day, and would I be able to finish the walk, etc. I was looking at the guidebook constantly, calculating every mile and researching each town. Hyper-focused. Ugh. The second time, I was involved but planned a little less. Had a little more “go with the flow” spirit. I was still looking up the towns and Albergues but was less stressed about it. I also had an amazing hiking partner in Luca who was walking his third so he was chill which rubbed off on me, I think. This time, I’m on another planet. I’m so in the moment that I don’t care what is up ahead, even though the others tell me the details. I’m actually completely fine with deferring the directions to my fellow pilgrims. I’m cool with getting lost. I don’t care about the time or distances. Very unlike my Type A personality but maybe letting go is good for me. I think it means I’m growing a little.
I did get involved twice today (because the others really shouldn’t have to do all the work and I have the largest Spanish vocabulary which isn’t saying much) and that was because one of us from the group needed to ask in Spanish how to get to the hostel once we arrived in the town…the guidebook wasn’t clear. The only guy around was the gentleman operating the bibliotheca and he didn’t speak English or German – which why should he? And I made the reservation (in Spanish) over the phone for tomorrow night. Otherwise, I’m kind of out of it. I’m just focusing on one foot in front of the other, smelling the flowers, feeling the wind on my face, petting the animals, and taking in the scenery. While also daydreaming and thinking about what to write.
In the later part of the morning it started to mist. It was wonderful. I actually love walking in a light sprinkle. On the straightaways, I even walked with my eyes closed to get the full effect of feeling each tiny droplet on my face and legs. It was like a spa treatment from Mother Nature. It really put me in the moment. I guess that is what Thích Nhất Hạnh is describing in his walking and eating meditation books. I thought about how I would describe it…like we tried to do with Stephen about snow. I was completely lost in the moment. After an hour or so the rain picked up and I had to bring out the Blue Beast. The horrendously ugly but super useful poncho that also doubles and triples as a mat to lay on and a tarp. It’s huge to cover the backpack. Did I mention it is ugly?
Since we arrived fairly early to the town, we sat down for a coffee in the last little bar before reaching the Albergue – Cabana del Abuelo Peuto, the place that comes highly recommended in the guidebooks. We were enthusiastically greeted by Trevor, a volunteer from Nottingham, England. He had us drop our backpacks and he brought us cool water and biscuits (cookies). He gave us a brief introduction about the place, helped us check in and showed us to our room. He even carried Stephen’s pack, it’s tradition to carry the bag of the eldest in the group. We picked our beds – first time ever seeing a triple bunkbed so we had to take a photo – grabbed a shower and then they fed us lunch consisting of a beautiful salad with bow tie pasta, lentil soup and a yogurt for dessert. After lunch we started our laundry and walked the grounds. I took a little time in the garden to relax and stared at the ground in meditation for about a half hour. The discovery, “gently let go what needs to go, and fearlessly allow the new that needs to come.”
This is a huge place. It can host 85 pilgrims and the facilities are amazing. It was started by Father Ernesto who is now 85. He has led a fascinating life. He joined the seminary at a young age, then went to prison for being part of a protest and then he decided to go to what he calls The Education of Life to see the world and help others while learning about different cultures. He has a fun green Land Rover (see photo) that he’s driven on four continents and has over 700,000 kilometers on the odometer. Sadly, Ernesto is on a mission so he is not here at the moment. They shared all of this with us at a talk the volunteers gave to all the pilgrims (usually Ernesto gives the talk) about the history of Ernesto, the Albergue and the Camino del Norte. It was really wonderful. Next we had a pilgrim meal where we all ate together in one big room. They served some sort of purée soup, meat and potato stew and fresh fruit for dessert along with water and wine. It was basic but very tasty and filling. Now the pilgrims are just hanging out getting to know each other. I’m guessing there is about 40-50 people here. They don’t set a price so you give what you feel is appropriate. They will also serve us breakfast tomorrow.
Anyhoo, if you ever hike the del Norte, consider spending a night here. It’s a wonderful pilgrim experience.
New people:
Simon: a young man from Lithuania. It’s his first Camino and he is walking to decide if he should leave his career as an engineer to basically live off the land and grow mushrooms and other organic foods.
Will: a nice guy from Holland. We had one of those “serious Camino chats” today. The one were you tell each other what’s wrong with you and your life and how you feel like a crazy person because you don’t fit in anywhere. It’s really the first one I’ve had on this Camino.
Gorka (George in English): a really nice guy from Bilbao, Spain. He is Basque. He was assigned to our room and there were no lower bunks. Apparently, he is a restless sleeper and has fallen out of the top bunks twice (ouch) so I gave him my bed and switch to the top. He was grateful. He was actually the interpreter for tonight’s lecture. He has already walked to Santiago and gotten his Compostela and is on his way back home…and walking. He is walking the Camino forwards and backwards. What a stud.
Dora showed up during lunch so we all clapped for her at her arrival. Very happy to see her again. She is one of my favorite people. Today she hiked over the big hill and the beach that we did yesterday. She thought was going to die on that hill…”too dangerous.” Agreed, Dora, agreed.
We all said happy birthday to Stephen’s dad, Phillip, on the phone today. He seems like a nice guy and happy to be turning 82. Apparently, I’m not getting any of the inheritance because Stephen said I didn’t officially remind him of the birthday even though I brought up today’s date and later his dad by asking his name. Which in all fairness triggered his memory so I think it counts but he doesn’t. Details, ugh.
We walked past many olive and fruit trees, and beautiful flower and vegetable gardens.
Speaking of gardens, Stephen grew the largest tomato in Australia in 1999. National champ. I don’t think the record still holds but his new trail name is Tomato Champ.
Felix from Miami popped up again and then disappeared again and then resurfaced at the hostel we are staying at tonight. He said it was an alien abduction…I think he took a bus. There’s a story there. He seems like a nice guy. He is a college professor and this is his second Camino. First one was 2019 when his mother passed away.
We walked by the most beautiful house for sale. It was absolutely stunning. Photo included.
There were two beautiful poppies roadside. The first ones we’ve seen on this walk. I can’t wait to see the fields of them like I have seen on my two other Caminos. Fingers crossed.
I saw people working out in a boxing gym and it made me miss my friends in the Rock Steady Boxing program at The J in KC.
I love the tradition of the way they deliver the bread (pan) everyday. I took a photo of a business delivery and a private home box…it looks like a mailbox.
Apparently, we will ride on another boat tomorrow. I could get used to this.
Quote of the day: “They must have a couple of deaths here every year.” Stephen discussing the triple tier bunkbed situation.
Highlight: the entire pilgrim experience at tonight’s hostel.
Noja – Güemes – 15km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
