“I ain’t here for a long time
I’m here for a good time
So bring on the sunshine
To hell with the red wine
Pour me some moon shine”
– George Strait song lyrics
Today was probably the most fun day so far…and definitely the most funny. I could not stop laughing. The hike was beautiful but a little ridiculous. I think they are trying to kill the Pilgrims on today’s hill.
We started off about 6:45am and of course we couldn’t find the arrow. But as always, someone stopped to help show us the way. This time it was the guy who owned the grocery store. We shopped in his store the night before. As we left his store, Stephen said, “that bloke was a bit of a prick don’t ya think?” His words not mine.
Me: “no, actually he seemed really nice.”
S: “of course because you’re a tall blonde girl from America. They all love you.”
Me: shrugs shoulders
So today after Mr. Grocery Store Man stopped to help, Stephen says, “well, would you look at that, he’s not much of a prick at all, is he?”
Me: (puts hand over face)
Side note: we found out that Mr. Grocery Store Man is the keeper of the keys. The keys that we still have no idea what they open but if you need them for some reason, he is the guy to go to. Mystery solved.
The weather was cool and cloudy. Perfect for hiking. We decided to take the long way on the first leg because it was the coastal route and was supposed to have stunning views. It did not disappoint.
We made it over the hill and into Laredo which was a fantastic town. As we looked for a café we saw Kersten and Michael so we sat with them for a coffee and then Dora showed up. Love that girl. She is hilarious. I learned that Dora is currently living in Ireland working as an Au Pair and has lived in New Zealand and Australia which is why she speaks such good English. Stephen apparently knew all of this and has been holding out on me. Heck of a hiking partner. Jeez.
As we were leaving Laredo we passed by a beautiful fruit market which reminded me of a Dani (German girl who is the midwife) story from a few days ago. I noticed a little grocery bag that Dani had been carrying around but didn’t think much of it until she told me that she had bought a dragon fruit to eat at the top of the mountain. She was so excited to try it. While she and Justine were at the top of the mountain taking a break, she got out her little baggie and started peeling the dragon fruit. She said she peeled it and peeled it but there was no fruit inside. I said, “well if you were trying to eat what was in that little baggie that you were carrying around, you definitely weren’t going to get any fruit out of it. That was an artichoke.” God I love this kid. She carried that poor little artichoke around for three days thinking it was a dragon fruit. Bless her little heart. She gave me her blessing to tell this story, and is hopeful her friends will never read this post.
We were on another boat today! Totally bizarre. It’s a little ferry with an electric ladder that they park wherever they want on the beach. It costs 2€ to ride. We cruised for about 300 meters before landing in the town of Santoña. This is where Dora parked it for the night. We all had a “ferry crossing” celebratory lemon beer and she said she was staying the night there and would see us later. I love her flow.
Dora is great fun and I think she might be having the best Camino. She sleeps late, takes it slow but somehow always catches up. And when she finds a place where she likes the vibe, she stops. It may take her 3 months to finish the Camino but she still doesn’t give a hoot. She is here to enjoy.
Today was my first time ever walking next to a prison on a Camino. Talk about a long, high wall. They have the best piece of land though. They are on a hill overlooking the ocean. I’m thinking about making a reservation. Free meals, clean laundry and an ocean view. Sign me up.
After the walk along the long wall we made it to the beach and then realized we had a huge hill to climb. But this wasn’t just any hill. It started out with a sand path (hello new blisters) and all the plants were overgrown and covering the trail. We are covered in tiny cuts. Stephen said, “they need to bring the prisoners up here to bush whack the hell out of these things.”
This hill was seriously hard to climb. Not because of the incline but because the path was extremely narrow and rocky. My guidebook said “do not walk when wet or foggy. You may fall off the cliff.” I could not stop laughing at the ridiculousness of this climb. Then, after you get to the top and have all these incredible views, you climb down and literally end up on the beach with the locals. So we took off our shoes and walked in the surf to our hostel. I loved this. So cold and refreshing on the feet.
The hostel is decent. Nothing fancy. Our party of 4 is all together along with a man from Switzerland. He’s given me the stink eye a few times. I don’t think I’m his favorite pilgrim. But hey, you can’t please ‘em all, baby.
Stephen had to do another unsanitary blister surgery for me. That goodness for other pilgrims. I cannot do this for myself. Wound care grosses me out. Stephen gave me a hard time for being “too delicate.” To which I replied, “you better watch out, I’m not delicate like a flower, I’m delicate like a bomb. I have a long fuse but when I explode, watch out.”
Last year, Francesco was my foot surgeon. He had a special technique of using thread and leaving it in the blister as a drain. Then the next day it would fall out. Brilliant. The blisters never came back and healed very quickly. He was amazing. Except for that night he drank too much vino, got the shakes and stabbed me in the pinky toe. (I know he is reading this…much love to you Francesco and thank you, Doctor!)
The afternoon was super sunny so everyone hung their laundry on the line and it smelled amazing.
The French people are mountain goats. That is all.
Stephen is wheeling and dealing on the phone as we walk. He got an offer last week from someone who wants to buy one of his hotels. It’s quite comical to watch him hike up big hills, out of breath, while trying to discuss serious business transactions. What a life.
Asparagus is white and very soft here in Spain.
There is a Pilgrim pulling his bag on a little wheely cart. He is one of the mountain goats.
Stephen’s Australian vocabulary (usually I need him to repeat himself):
Ute – worker’s truck
Tippy – a dump truck
Fair Dinkum – are you for real? Or, really?
Heaps – many, a lot
Mate – friend
Chockers – packed full
Crikey – omg
Ta – thanks
Brekky – breakfast
She’ll be right – it will be okay
Hook in – get going (he says this a lot, usually when I’m lallygagging and dilly dallying)
Chock (pronounced like a double o) – big hen
Struck off – I’ll get no inheritance – said when asking me to remind him that tomorrow is his father’s birthday. – Dude, he’s not my dad so a “reminder” will cost you part of that inheritance.
I forgot to fill up my water bottle at the beginning of the day. Don’t do this. We hiked 5k and I had two swigs.
Quote of the day: Dora quoting her dad “when are you going to come back to Taiwan and settle down like everyone else?”
“Never,” she said with a mischievous laugh.
I think I’ve heard that phrase a time or two myself.
Highlight: It’s a toss up. Ferry ride and walking in the surf.
Liendo – Noja – 21km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
