“I’ve learned that you can tell a lot about a person by the way they handle three things: a rainy day, lost luggage, and tangled Christmas tree lights.” – Maya Angelou
Today was the best day yet. The body is feeling a wee bit better. The walk was enjoyable. My last blister didn’t make me wince in pain. Not too hot. Not too hilly. However, it stormed last night and the trail was extremely slippery and muddy. So slippery in fact that I wiped out on a set of wooden stairs and ended up on my back like a turtle. My trekking poles went flying and Stephen actually caught one before it poked his eye out. Thank goodness I landed on my backpack so I didn’t hurt anything. I couldn’t stop laughing and asked Stephen to take a photo but he refused. He said it would bring bad luck and next time I’d probably break a leg and end my Camino. He doesn’t understand my sense of humor for documenting my idiot moments to share with you guys. *sigh*
We are getting to the fun part of the Camino. The body is starting to adapt. We are beginning to recognize the other pilgrims and know them by name. So when we are on a break and someone walks up, everyone claps and says a big ‘hello!” We aren’t to the hugging phase yet but it is coming. This is a tough journey and we are all here to encourage and lift each other up. We are on our way!
The great thing about the Camino is, it’s yours and you can do it however you wish. Some people like me hike thru to Santiago in one shot. Others hike one or two weeks or 10 days at a time because that’s what their schedule allows. It will take them 3-4 years to complete if they want to go all the way to Santiago. But what a fun vacation to look forward to for years to come!
Some people are only here to complete it as a goal in the fastest time possible and get the trophy at the end, while others take it slow and make it last for months. Some people camp and shower in the streams, others use the hostels. Whatever works. I met a girl on my first Camino who had been hiking for 8 months. She started walking from her front door in Russia. I’ve also met a ton of people who walk the last 100k (70 miles) to get the certificate (that is the total amount required to qualify). You do you, people.
To be “official” and get the Compostela, you can complete the Camino by walking, or by riding a bike or a horse. Yes, a horse. I saw two guys on horseback during my first Camino and they said the toughest part was finding a place to stay and tie up the horse (which pretty much eliminated staying in big cities) and getting food for the horses.
I’ve heard that money doesn’t change people, it just exacerbates their personality and character. I think the Camino is similar. It’s like all of your mannerisms and behavior are under a microscope for a month or so. It’s the little things that get ya…like wet laundry or losing your tube of toothpaste. I hate it when that happens. I’m learning to be aware of what makes me happy, sad, angry, or frustrated and how to respond, instead of react to each situation. One of the biggest lessons the Camino has taught me is to not judge another person’s Camino…as well as in “regular life”. I learned it on my first Camino with Song (from South Korea). Song had been in Europe already for six months and she was going to be in Portugal for another month after we finished. Her bag was huge…literally bigger than she was. I could barely lift it. She couldn’t carry it long distances so she had it shipped from town to town with the courier service that is a mainstream business on the Camino. This is not uncommon. If you get injured or just need a break, you can ship your pack for 5€. Anyway, we were at dinner one night and some guy started saying that Song’s Camino wasn’t legit because she wasn’t carrying her bag…and “suffering” like the rest of us. Now Song didn’t speak much English when we met but she understood everything. She is a smart cookie. We are still friends to this day. Anyhoo, this guy was being a jerk. She just sat there stoic, like she didn’t understand. So I spoke up and started defending my friend. She lightly put her hand on my wrist and looked at me square in the eyes and shook her head once. I stopped talking. Later that night I asked her why she didn’t speak up or at least allow me to on her behalf. She said, “Emily, you never have to explain yourself. I am doing the Camino the way that works best for me.” I’ve never questioned my own Camino or anyone else’s ever since. You do you.
There is a great meme that reads, “How to Win at Life: Step 1. Let people do what they need to do to make them happy, mind your own business and do what you need to do to make you happy. The end.” Sage advice right here.
There are people from all walks of life, walking the Camino the way they want. That’s what is beautiful, everyone has their own Camino and none of it is anyone else’s business. I took an elevator yesterday and it was fantastic…no steps! We rode a ferry the other day, so now that boat is apart of my Camino. Last year, we hitchhiked because my Italian hiking partner, Luca, had a bum knee and we wanted to stay together. I love it! It’s all part of the story of my Camino. A good metaphor for life.
Some say, your Camino starts the day you decide to do it. Others say it’s when you are dropped off at the airport or train station. Who cares. What matters is, that after you take that first step, you are on a Camino for the rest of your life. You will change. You will grow. You will be misunderstood. And some people won’t recognize you anymore. Hell, you might not recognize yourself anymore either. You’ll think it will solve your problems but it doesn’t. It will ask new questions. It will be okay. Let it unfold as it should.
People I’ve met:
On my first Camino, I met an 82 year old and an 8 year old….and all ages in between. I’ve met many nationalities, races, religions, and anti-religious people on my three Caminos. My second night on my first Camino in 2018, I met a Spanish man, Diego, he was 72. He had Parkinson’s and sang Opera for us at dinner even though his voice quivered from his condition. It was beautiful. That was his 13th (or 17th) time (I don’t remember) walking the Camino.
Today, I met an 82 year old woman, Judy, from Canada. She has walked Caminos all over the world. She swears this is her last one but I don’t believe her. She is walking with her pal Tina who is “only” 72 and this is her 15th Camino. Wow!
Today, I’ve gotten to know probably one of the most incredible humans I’ve ever met. Her name is Dani (Daniella). She is 22 and from Germany. She is an old soul. She is wise beyond her years and so comfortable in her own skin. She has a calming presence. She has traveled all over the world and is a midwife. She volunteers her midwife services in Uganda. She told me she still has the pair of shoes that she wore when she “caught her first baby.” Today, she shared her food and her WiFi hot spot with me before I ever learned her name. She and her friend are hiking for two weeks before they have to go home for their friend’s wedding…which means they won’t make it to Santiago this trip.
Some guy from Slovakia who is hiking 40km a day. He is moving and grooving and is so happy, I didn’t even catch his name he flew by so quickly. We won’t see him again. Later dude. Ha!
Anette, from Germany but she lives in Greece. She is tough but kind. She is very grateful to be here because she has a 14 year old dog at home and some of her friends are staying at her house to take care of him. I catch her smiling at the views from time to time. It’s sweet and inspiring.
Kirsten and Michael, from Germany. Kirsten is turning 50 and seems slightly stressed about it. She is a nurse. They have a 20 year old son together. Today, her hip hurt her so bad she had to take the bus. She seemed defeated. She has hiked the Frances before and she swears it’s in her bones now. I’m glad they took the bus so we are still on the same pace. But I’m aware that they will be leaving soon as well because, work and reality is calling them home in two or three weeks as well.
Antonio, 32 from Sevilla, Spain. When he walks it’s like he is gliding on water. He moves so smoothly like he doesn’t have a care in the world. I really like this guy. He has walked the Frances three times. This is his first Norte as well. We’ve talked about how the original route is very spiritual and magical. This route is a hike and it’s nice but nothing will ever be like the Frances way. He seems to be an intellectual based off our conversations. He is carrying a heavy book – which doesn’t seem to affect his glide one bit. He stops to read at the cafes while the rest of us chat. He knows of Kansas City because there is a major road in Seville called Kansas City. So I shared with him that the County Club Plaza is modeled after Sevilla. It’s like we are siblings.
And of course there is Stephen. Who keeps surprising me as we walk. He is so kind. Almost every pilgrim he meets he shares his contact info on a piece of paper and invites them to stay in his hotels in Australia for free. He says, “show this when you arrive and all of your stay is free. My staff knows that anyone I meet on the Camino has free access to everything.” He plans on buying a Gite (hostel) in France on the Camino and the same rules apply. He also says he’d offer a job to anyone on the walk as well. He says, “if you’ve hiked the Camino, you have the character to do any job.” I think he might be right. This is a special tribe.
The Camino is such a huge deal in the Spanish culture that they list it on their CV/resume. It inspired me to list it on mine as well. It pretty much guarantees you a job in Spain because it shows your character and that you can preserve through even the biggest challenges. Now the shady part of this is, people actually pay others to walk it for them to get the pilgrim passport and Compostela so they can list it on their credentials. There truly is a (black) market for everything.
Funniest part of the day: At the convent last night, the volunteer (he is from a mid-evil town near Madrid), Mariano, who checked us in, had a little crush on me (and all the females). He was very flirty. When Stephen asked if he would help us with today’s room reservation (we needed a Spanish translator), he said, “for you, yes, Emily, no, she is staying with me.” We all had a good laugh. Anyway, today we left and didn’t see him to say goodbye. Stephen even mentioned “you probably broke Mariano’s heart by not saying goodbye.” “Yeah, sometimes you’ve just gotta love ‘em and leave ‘em on the trail,” I said as a joke. We had been walking for about 5-10 minutes when I hear someone singing my name. I looked back and it’s Mariano. I thought I’d forgotten something but no, he was out on his morning jog. He stopped, we said our goodbyes and took a photo that he insisted I text to him. About an hour later, our group was at a bar (café) having a drink and relaxing when out of the blue, Mariano comes up behind me again to say goodbye and blow kisses. What a nut. See photos….he is the one wearing blue Spandex. Ha!
Bummer part of the day: the lady in front of me at breakfast snagged the last chocolate croissant. Dammit. You snooze, you lose.
Highlight: I saw FIGS starting to grow on the trees. They won’t be ready until August but Mother Nature made my day. I swear when I settle down with a home again, I will have a fig tree in my yard.
Off to another pilgrim meal with my new friends and some new faces.
Markina-Xemein – Mendata – 17.8km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
