“When you have more than you need, build a longer table, not a higher fence.” – unknown
Last night we had our first pilgrim meal. These are much more popular on the Frances route because it is the original, more spiritual and has many more pilgrims. The pilgrim meal is usually hosted by the Albergue (or in a restaurant – but individual orders – we ate at one tonight). It is food served family style and cost usually around 12€. Normally it has a small appetizer, (soup or salad), the main meal, a little dessert and wine or water. Last night we had salad, grilled veggies, and a pasta with white sauce and a load of Parmigiano cheese. It was delicious. We had a table full of 12 people. 4 French, 4 Germans, 1 Dutch, 1 Spanish, 1 Australian, and me, USA.
This Camino is LOADED with French and Germans on this walk. I walked the Camino Frances last year and I mostly walked with 7-8 Italians, 3 Americans, 2 Croatians, 1 Irishman, 1 Dutch, 2-3 Spanish, 1 Japanese, 1 Swiss, and 1 Colombian. The first Camino in 2018 was mostly Germans, French, Spanish, Danish, and I walked from start to finish with an awesome South Korean woman named Song. I would book our rooms since her English was limited and she cooked authentic Korean meals. It was amazing.
I love hearing all the languages, learning about their lives, families, hobbies, cultures, travel adventures and politics in each country. It’s very interesting. However, everyone is more similar than different. We are all just trying to live our lives the best we know how…find a good job, make money, be in love, spend time with family, pay the bills, raise the kids, travel, and try to enjoy all of it when we can.
It rained last night and we were in a building with a tin metal roof (cue the music). It was like a lullaby putting me to sleep.
Today was another butt kicker. The views are absolutely amazing around every turn but hiking in the Pyrenees is not for the weak – physically, mentally or emotionally. We only walked about 20k (12.5 miles) but it was straight up and over one of the peaks and down. There was not one stop in between. No coffee or chocolate croissants. Boo. I did have a breakfast pack I bought from the Italian restaurant last night which helped with my energy levels. I drank enough water to stay hydrated but not too much that I had to pee in the woods. (This is a reality on the Camino and my worst nightmare – I’m paranoid someone will see me – I know, I know). We hiked for 7 hours with two stops on the side of the road. Brutal but gorgeous. I’m not sure which is harder on the body, the climb up or the down. Both are painful either on your knees or feet.
We are staying at a convent tonight. It didn’t catch fire when I entered so I think it will be okay for me to sleep here. #sinner
We found a laundromat! Hallelujah! The convent of course didn’t have a dryer so several of us put our clothes together and chipped in on the 8€ for a wash and dry. Teamwork.
It’s funny what becomes important on the Camino. This time it seems to be laundry. In the past, finding food or an open café (since the culture is different they have a very different schedule here in Spain), a pharmacy, or good WiFi were a few things that come to mind.
I got a great tip from one of my hiking buddies from my last Camino regarding the damp laundry situation. He said to put it in my sleeping bag with me at night and my body heat would help dry them out. Damp clothes only, not soaking wet. Those Croatians are so smart. I tucked a damp sports bra by my feet last night and it worked. Thanks, Ivica.
Quote of the day: Stephen when trying to order at a café. “Just when I thought I was doing okay with my Spanish, it turns out he is Pakistani.”
Gross moment: Stephen had to perform another unsanitary blister surgery on my foot during one of our breaks today. Thank goodness for hiking buddies who can handle this sort of thing.
Funny moment of the day: I have a little bit of a heat rash on my ankles from my feet getting too hot. It’s happened on all of my Camino’s from my wool socks. I was told to take my shoes and sock off at the breaks and to put ice cold water on them when I can. On one of our breaks today I noticed a water tap attached to a private barn. So I was washing and cooling my feet off in someone’s outdoor trough (classy, Rand) and a neighbor walked by laughing hysterically. Hey, you gotta do what you gotta do out here on the trail. I then proceeded to fill up my water bottle. These are Pilgrim Privileges…so they say.
By the way, along the routes, they have done a great job of having fountains available for the pilgrims. It’s very helpful, especially on hot days.
Highlight of the day: visiting all the animals. Cow, horses, chickens, sheep, donkeys, goats, and even a miniature pony!
Odd items…
The item I miss the most from back home: hands down, no questions asked…my electric toothbrush. I didn’t get the nickname TEETH from The J Coffee Club back home for nothin’.
Luxury item I bought with me: mascara. I went without it on my first Camino. I’ve sacrificed enough.
The Euro is different sizes and colors for each bill and coin so disabled (blind) people can tell the difference and not get ripped off. Brilliant.
The arrows can change depending on where you are. Mostly they are yellow arrows but sometimes they become shells on the ground. Gotta keep an eye out or you’ll miss that important fork in the road.
I’m exhausted and the lack of sleep is finally catching up. I’m sure this is littered with typos. Going to bed now.
Ibiri – Markina-Xemein – 19.5km
Goodnight and much love from Spain.
