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“Always laugh when you can. It is cheap medicine.” Lord Byron
Before I tell you about today’s BIG adventures, let me first answer the question I received the most about yesterday’s blog.
“How much did your hospital visit cost?”
The short answer.
“Zero.”
Thanks to Romania’s universal healthcare system, even foreigners can receive the level of care I needed at no cost. Now, if I’d needed surgery or a lengthy hospital stay, I’m sure there would have been expenses. But seeing a doctor (who, by the way, saw me immediately, no waiting room, no paperwork marathon, no listening to blaring daytime television for three hours) and having my urine analyzed cost absolutely nothing.
The five-day pack of antibiotics plus a bottle of probiotics without insurance cost me 72 RON, or about $16 USD (€13).
Needless to say, this would’ve been a very different story in the United States. I can’t speak for every country, but it’s refreshing to see healthcare treated as a basic human right here in Romania…for everyone.
Now…on to today’s adventures. 🧡
Given my medical condition and Massimo’s flat tire, the owners of last night’s accommodation suggested that we take at least one day of rest. The wife, who happens to be a nurse, thought I should give my body a chance to heal and travel to the next larger town where I’d have access to a pharmacy – she had another prescription for me. Ugh.
A bigger town also meant more shopping options so Massimo could buy some new sandals.
So we did just that.
It sounded like the most responsible decision we’d made all week.
János (John), who owned the guesthouse, kindly called us a taxi.
Forty-two kilometers later…we’d officially skipped a chunk of the trail.
Zero regrets. None. Nada. Zip. Zilch.
Of course, the taxi driver and Massimo hit it off like a house on fire…AND THEY DON’T EVEN SPEAK THE SAME LANGUAGE!
One concern…
I thought we were going to drive into a ditch because he was so focused on Massimo and not the road.
Ummm…Hello. Sir. Please pay attention to where you are going. Pretty please.
I swear, the wall would love talking with Massimo if it could speak.
While we waited for the taxi, something pretty special happened.
Massimo managed to pet the family’s baby deer.
János couldn’t believe it.
He told us the deer only lets his wife and the children touch him, not even János himself, and definitely not guests.
Add “Bambi Whisperer” to Massimo’s résumé.
Every time I tried to get close, the little guy sprinted away like I’d shown up carrying a hunting rifle. He must have sensed I am from America. 🇺🇸
After arriving in town, our first stop was the sporting goods store.
I’m pleased to announced that we are back in business.
The ugly shoe business, that is.
They only had two hiking sandal options: Columbia and Head.
Unfortunately, they didn’t have Massimo’s size in the Columbia pair, so Head it was.
So far he seems pleased walking around town in them. Tomorrow’s hike will determine whether they were a brilliant purchase or an expensive mistake.
Good Lord, they’re hideous.
Then again…so are mine.
Comfort over cuteness, I suppose.
Life is all about balance.
As much as I love hiking through mountains and forests, I also love hot meals, hotter showers, and sitting in a cute café with an excellent cup of coffee.
I’m not one of those hardcore women who hikes 30 to 40 kilometers a day, bathes in rivers, and happily sleeps in a tent every night.
No.
It’s why I don’t hike in the US much.
I’m what you’d call…a bougie hiker.
Ideally, I’d hike six or seven kilometers, stop for coffee and a pastry, hike another eight to ten kilometers, reward myself with an Aperol Spritz, and call it a successful day.
That’s my version of balance.
Unfortunately…
The Via Transilvanica doesn’t cater to bougie hikers.
The stages are long. The villages are far apart. There are very few opportunities to stop along the way. This trail was clearly designed by people who think suffering builds character.
I am not that gal. Which probably explains why I’ve struggled more than expected. And probably why Massimo has excelled so much. He is in his element.
So today felt downright luxurious.
There I was, sitting in a trendy café, sipping coffee while wearing filthy hiking clothes, smelling like three consecutive days of sweat on the trail, with my backpack and trekking poles piled beside me. My kind of balance.
Everyone stared. They probably smelled us before they saw us. I didn’t care.
For one glorious hour, I felt like a civilized human being again.
Our next stop…The pharmacy.
Again. Sigh.
Sidebar: I realize I write a public blog, but I’m actually a very private person. I usually write about the places I visit and the people I meet…not my personal medical adventures. So this is definitely new territory for me.
This time I came prepared.
Google Translate? Ready.
Photo of the cream the nurse recommended? Ready.
Embarrassment? Also ready.
Thankfully, the pharmacist spoke English.
She disappeared into the back room and returned holding the tube of cream.
She explained,
“This cream is antifungal and should help kill the bacteria while you’re hiking. It also works for foot fungus should you need it.”
Before I could even respond, Massimo proudly announced,
“Oh good! Because she has that on her big toenail too!”
MASSIMO!! Shhhhhhhhh. Jesus!
The pharmacist laughed.
I shot him the look. You know the one. The one your mother gave you when you instantly knew your future included being grounded.
Listen, Massimo is a wonderful human. But the word “discreet” or “discreto” simply does not exist in his Italian vocabulary.
Since this whole ordeal started, he has informed…
-
our hosts…
-
other hikers…
-
the taxi driver…
-
probably the shepherds in the fields…
I’m convinced half of Romania now knows my lady parts have been on fire.
I’ve even received text messages from fellow hikers checking in on me.
“Hope you’re feeling better!”
“Thank you, John. Happy to report the crotch fire has been downgraded from a five-alarm blaze to a small, manageable smolder thanks to the new cream I bought.”
Oy vey!
Seriously though…
Can’t a lady have a little privacy?
When I asked Massimo if he could maybe stop sharing my medical history with complete strangers, he smiled and said in his thick Italian accent,
“Yes, Bella…but I am an open book. I can’t help it.”
Close the book, Massimo.
Put it on the top shelf.
And. Zip. Your. Lips.
And add some tape if you need to.
Well….Since it’s no secret, here’s the cream in case you were wondering or need to buy some for yourself…
After running our errands, we headed directly to the lovely apartment we rented because…apparently we’re city people now.
It had a beautiful kitchen, a modern bathroom, and most importantly a glorious hot shower.
I took full advantage.
I scrubbed approximately five layers of trail dust off my feet.
I’d like to officially nominate the tiny nail brush I packed as my second favorite piece of hiking gear, right behind my bandana.
Then I trimmed and filed my nails.
I used face cream.
Honestly…
It felt like I’d spent the afternoon at a luxury spa.
With all our newfound free time, we played several rounds of Machiavelli.
Current Standings:
Massimo: 5 | Emily: 9
…but who’s counting?
Me. That’s who. It’s the only thing I’m better at than him. And it’s his game!
Since we had Italian food 🍕the other day, today we went all American with burgers and fries. 🇺🇸 I did allow a little bit of Italian influence – the fries were seasoned with Parmesan cheese and garlic.
Today was exactly what I needed. My spirit feels lighter and the crotch fire seems to be going out.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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There was an American flag waving in the wind on the balcony next door to our Airbnb. 🇺🇸 What a warm welcome to the neighborhood!
