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“Good company on a journey makes the way seem shorter.” Izaak Walton
Last night we stayed at Insula Argentina guesthouse (“Argentina Island”), owned by Argentina and her husband, Gabriel.
They were fantastic hosts with a beautiful guesthouse built specifically to welcome Via Transilvanica hikers. Like many local families, they believed in the future of the trail long before thousands of hikers started walking it. They began construction in 2020, investing in a dream and their future livelihood.
“If you build it, they will come.”
Turns out…they were right.
Argentina is an absolute fireball of energy.
She previously lived in Italy, speaks fluent Italian, and, perhaps most importantly according to Massimo, knows how to make a proper Italian espresso. That alone earned her five stars in his book.
She also mentioned that she competed on a Romanian reality show similar to Survivor, filmed in the Dominican Republic. She didn’t win the entire competition, but she was the last woman standing.
Pretty incredible.
She sent me this photo they put on their social media. 🧡
We had a decision to make this morning.
Because their guesthouse sits roughly in the middle of a stage, hiking directly from their house would only leave us with about 10 kilometers before reaching the end. Continuing beyond that would mean tackling the entire next stage because there isn’t any accommodation halfway through.
So we made the difficult decision…to have Gabriel drive us to the official end of the stage.
Yes.
We skipped it.
Today’s verdict?
Zero regrets.
This is my seventh long distance hike. I’m completely fine with skipping a few miles.
Tomorrow we’ll leave the Highlands behind and enter Terra Siculorum, otherwise known as bear country.
Today was easily my favorite day on the trail so far.
And no…not just because we started it in a car.
For once, almost everything worked in our favor.
The trail mostly stayed tucked beneath a cool forest canopy, a gentle breeze followed us most of the day, and the climb wasn’t one of those soul-crushing ascents that make you question every life decision you’ve ever made.
Instead, it gradually climbed uphill at a pace that actually made hiking enjoyable.
Who knew that was possible?
The scenery didn’t change much.
Trees.
More trees.
Even more trees.
Until we stumbled upon a herd of cows arriving for lunch.
Shortly after watching the cows jockeying each other for a place at the tough, we took and break under a big tree.
I spread my poncho on the ground while Massimo claimed a fallen log.
I laid there quietly with my eyes closed in silence listening to nature’s orchestra – the bee buzzing close to my head, the birds singing their sweet chirps, the grasshoppers making a symphony in the tall grass, the bells chiming on the necks of the cows as they graze nearby…
Then…
click.
Fssssss.
What in the hell…???
I looked over to see Massimo calmly lighting a cigarette on our break – like only an Italian can do.
Pazzo.
Honestly, I’m surprised he doesn’t carry an espresso machine in his backpack to pair with the cigarettes.
Speaking of his habits…
After dinner last night, Massimo enjoyed his usual extra-short espresso before politely excusing himself for his evening cigarette.
One of the German hikers watched him in complete disbelief before blurting out,
“YOU are hiking…AND smoking?!”
Without missing a beat, Massimo smiled.
“I only smoke two or three a day. Every man must have his faults, otherwise the other men get jealous.”
The entire table burst into laughter.
But the true highlight of the day came just as we started the descent.
We were chatting away as usual when we heard someone behind us yell, “Hey, hey! How did you guys get in front of us.”
We turned around to see Petr and Adam, the two Czech guys we hiked with several days ago.
When we stayed an extra day at George’s house (yes…the one who adored Massimo), they had continued hiking through pouring rain.
They’re 27 and 29.
I’m 47.
There are advantages to youth.
I answered honestly. “We drove!”’
They started laughing.
“Cheaters.”
Yes, yes we are.
We spent the rest of the afternoon hiking together, catching each other up on
everything that had happened since we’d gone our separate ways.
We even managed to get ourselves lost.
Again.
Not because the trail is difficult.
Because four people talking apparently can’t also be trusted to notice trail markers.
Fortunately, we realized our mistake pretty quickly and didn’t wander too far.
When we reached town, Petr and Adam’s guesthouse was only a few meters before ours.
Since tomorrow would be their final day on the Via Transilvanica before catching a train back to Bucharest, we stopped for one last celebratory drink together – just in case we don’t see them tomorrow on the trail.
Na zdraví! 🍻
Petr is a professional ceramic artist with his own online shop, so naturally we spent quite a while talking pottery. His work is genuinely beautiful, and he ships throughout Europe…and even to the United States. To support his work, check out his Instagram or visit his website to place an order. His art is really incredible.
Another funny coincidence…
Twenty-five years ago I studied abroad in Prague.
Adam grew up in Karlovy Vary, the gorgeous spa town my classmates and I visited during one of our weekend trips.
Such a small world.
I love when I met people and I’ve been to their hometown and can actually picture it in my mind.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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We saw a viper today!
Well…Massimo saw the viper. Then he alerted me. This is precisely why I insist he walks in front. He clears the morning cobwebs with his face, spots the snakes, and handles all the terrifying wildlife before I even know it’s there.
A perfect arrangement, if you ask me.
Even funnier?
The very next kilometer marker featured…
a snake. 🐍
The trail has jokes.
One final debate from today’s hike.
We made sandwiches before leaving the guesthouse. Mine contained pepperoni, cheese, cucumber, and tomato. Simple and delicious but it caused a HUGE debate.
In Italian, pepperoni means peppers.
What Americans call pepperoni, Massimo insisted, is actually salami.
The Germans sided with me.
Final score:
Americans and Germans: 3
Italian: 1
We’ll call that an international victory. 🥇
As always…Legs up the wall.
Every.
Single.
Night.
It’s become the official end-of-day ritual and the best remedy I’ve found for swollen hiking legs and feet.
