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“It’s those changes in latitudes, changes in attitudes. Nothing remains quite the same. With all of our running and all of our cunning. If we couldn’t laugh we would all go insane.” Lyrics from Changes in Latitude by Jimmy Buffet
Well, today was a much better day – and not just because we had a puppy following us for one or two kilometers. Although, I have to admit, that was the perfect way to kick off the morning.
Maria treated us to another delicious Romanian breakfast before we said our goodbyes. Then she drove us to the trailhead, sending us off with full stomachs and a big hug.
There comes a point on a long hike when you realize the trail isn’t the thing making you miserable.
You are.
That realization hit me today.
Not all at once. Not like a lightning bolt. More like a slow sunrise.
Over the past week, I’ve spent an awful lot of energy wishing things were different.
I wished it were cooler. I wished the climbs weren’t so steep. I wished there were more towns to stop over for a cool drink. I wished there were fewer road walks. I wished the guidebook’s “easy day” actually meant easy. I wished there were fewer flies…and fewer cow pastures…and definitely fewer opportunities to step in what the cows leave behind.
Every day seemed to bring another inconvenience, another obstacle, another reason to complain.
The funny thing is, the trail never argued with me. I was just having a monologue.
It didn’t suddenly flatten because I wanted it to. The sun didn’t hide behind the clouds because I was hot. The flies didn’t immediately respect my personal space. The cows certainly didn’t clean up after themselves.
The trail simply continued being exactly what it had always been.
Somewhere along the way, I had an epiphany…I can’t change the trail. The only thing I can change is me and how I experience it.
I can choose curiosity over criticism. Gratitude over grumbling. Wonder over worry.
None of those choices make the miles shorter, the temperature cooler, or the climbs easier. They simply make me lighter and happier.
It’s amazing how much energy complaining requires. It steals your attention from the very reason you came in the first place. When you’re busy focusing on everything that’s wrong – like I have been – you miss everything that’s right.
I’ve been missing the breeze that finally arrives after a long climb in the hot sun. The flowers growing wild in the fields. The breathtaking views from the top of the mountains. The amazing hospitality from the Romanian community. The kindness and support Massimo continues to show me. Even the ridiculous little puppy that decides you’re its new best friend for a kilometer or two.
Those moments have been here all along. My bad attitude was simply standing in the way of experiencing them.
I started this journey to experience Romania – an entirely new world for me. To challenge myself. To grow. To learn.
Somewhere along the way, I’d quietly shifted my goal from experiencing the trail to judging it.
Every day became a scorecard. Too hot. Too long. Too rainy. Too muddy. Too many bugs. Not enough shade. Not enough towns with cafes. Blah. Blah. Blah.
The trail wasn’t failing me. I was failing to meet the trail where it was. And honestly, I was failing myself.
Life works the same way.
We spend so much time wishing our circumstances were different that we forget we always have one thing completely within our control: how we respond.
We can’t control the weather. We can’t control difficult people. We can’t control unexpected detours, disappointments, or setbacks.
But we can choose whether those things become the story of our day, or just a dot on the map.
Tomorrow the trail will probably still have steep climbs. It will probably, okay, definitely, still be hot. There may be flies, barking guard dogs, muddy paths, and a few surprises I wasn’t expecting. But tomorrow, I hope I show up differently.
Because sometimes the greatest transformation isn’t the landscape. It’s the person doing the walking.
And today’s hike reflected that change…so to recap…
Massimo and I had a very enjoyable walk today. We left a little earlier so the heat wasn’t too bad until the final stretch of the hike.
We actually came across a town in the middle of the hike that had a little store to buy cold drinks! The day was already looking up with my new change in attitude.
It was still hot and we had some big climbs but they didn’t seem so bad today. We even rested for about an hour in the forest. Massimo hung the hammock and we ate our sandwiches and relaxed. I made sure to notice the cool breeze and the trees talking as the wind rustled their leaves.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t find accommodation in Casva, the next stop listed in the guidebook. Thankfully, Maria (our wonderful host from last night) called her friend Argentina, who lives in Toaca, about halfway through tomorrow’s stage. She graciously agreed to host us at her guesthouse and even arranged for her husband and his friend to pick us up in Casva.
Romanian hospitality continues to amaze me.
We spent the evening relaxing and getting to know two other hikers who are walking together. One of them is German living in Norway and the other is Romanian living in Germany. I’m always amazed to hear people’s life stories…the twists and turns of fate.
I also spent some time alone sitting beside a small creek to soak my feet. They are swollen, sunburned, and desperately in need of some relief. The cool water felt incredible.
I sat there for a while, doing absolutely nothing except listening to the water as it flowed over my toes and appreciating the moment.
Exactly what I’d promised myself I would do.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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Another milestone! We crossed 300 km. We missed the marker but celebrated with a happy dance at 302.
When we arrived in Casva, we planned to get a cold drink while we waited for our ride. I was so exhausted, I fell asleep at the table. You know it’s been a good hike when this happens.
