Day 1, Via Francigena: Siena to Ponte d'Arbia

“We delight in the beauty of the butterfly, but rarely admit the changes it has gone through to achieve that beauty.” Maya Angelou

Siena to Ponte d’Arbia.

Guidebook mileage: 25.8km (16.03 miles).

Emily mileage: 31.7km (19.7 miles). I took an intended detour and walked around a town off of the VF Cammino. Not sure it was worth it but, eh, live and learn.

I didn’t sleep very much last night which is common for me the night before I start a Camino. I’m a little bit excited and a little bit nervous. Even after all of these hikes, I still stress about whether or not I can do it and how to get the heck out town that first morning. Like I’m going to get lost before I even start or something. Silly brain.

I walked out the door of the Airbnb at 5:55 am, not on purpose but what a fun number to start the day. I rounded the corner to walk by Piazza del Campo only to discover workers were laying down dirt for the upcoming Contrade (horse races – see previous post for details).

Oh, well, were the workers happy to see me, let me tell you. They kindly let me cut through the red tape and we had a nice chat. They said it was too early and I should still be in bed. When I explained I had a long walk on the Via Francigena and I was hoping to avoid the sun as much as possible, they wanted to talk even more. Men. Ha! They told me about their lives and some funny stories – in perfect English. I’m not getting to practice my Italian much because the locals want to practice English. Sigh.

Anyhoo, one of the guys (center in the photo) said he was from Sardina. I said I heard there was cool hike on the island called 100 Towers. He confirmed it but said he is not a hiker…and never will be. Ha! I asked why he moved and how long he’d been in Siena, and he said, “For a woman. 33 years ago. She dumped me after the first year and I never left. Learn from my story and don’t do that.” Hahahaha! I could not stop laughing.

Today, during a reflective moment, I could see the evolution of my personal growth from these Caminos. I remember starting my first Camino in 2018 out of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the Camino Frances. I was a nervous wreck and probably gave myself diarrhea or something…you know those nerves. We’ve all had them. Not only was I nervous about getting lost or finishing, but about doing it alone. I was quite honestly terrified. Doing and trying new things actually scare me but I’ve become so accustomed to pushing through the uncomfortableness because there is a part of me deep down that knows the reward will be worth it in the end.

Now on my fifth Camino, I can see how each previous Camino was a building block to the Via Francigena. If I would have tried this Camino as my first one, I would have hated it. I would have been lonely and felt completely lost. The Camino Frances was perfect for my first try at long distance hiking. The signage is clear, there are people and towns (with coffee, chocolate croissants, and beer) everywhere. It’s kind of like a fun party with a grueling daily workout. Of course, I was growing and changing in my own way from 34 days of walking but there was a safety net surrounding me. I always appreciate being tethered.

After three Caminos hiking in a foreign country surrounded by people most of the time, I tried the Portuguese Camino in May and June, ALONE. It was a first for me. Of course I saw people but I made sure to keep all the decision making to myself for the majority of it. Where I would stop, eat, and sleep. I even went off trail for a few nights just to test my level of nervousness from not doing it the way the guidebook says and how everyone else was doing. It was the next step that I needed to build my confidence and calm my nervous system. For as much as an independent person that I am, I also follow trends and feel comfortable/secure in a small group setting. So testing these behaviors and patterns were a big deal for me personally and it’s all led me to the Via Francigena. This road can be lonely, accommodations are not as easy to find, and the towns are smaller and not really Camino focused.

I mean Spain understood the assignment. Their entire country, government and citizens alike have boarded the gravy train of Camino tourism money. Portugal and Italy still haven’t received the memo as to what a cash cow this pilgrimage business can be.

Another pilgrim told me not to compare Camino routes, which is hard to do and I’m doing my best but there is definitely a difference – not good or bad, just different.

I’ve only met two pilgrims on the trail so far. A lovely, lovely father and daughter duo, Eddie & Sara, who walked from Lucca to Ponte d’Arbia, our final stop for the day. They are headed back to Milano tomorrow morning because they only had a week to walk. Hello. Goodbye.

I met them at a cafe this morning and they were just delightful. Eddie is actually from São Paulo, Brazil but moved to Italy 33 years ago to marry his Italian wife. Sara just finished her undergraduate degree in Economics and is going on to get a Masters. She is an amazing young woman with an old soul…and perfect English. This is Eddie’s first Camino but Sara hiked the Camino Frances last year from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port…where she hiked with a guy from where else…Kansas City.

Other than Sara and Eddie, I didn’t meet another pilgrim on the trail today, and the locals were few and far between since it’s Saturday. I think if this was my first hike, I would have panicked and broke down because of being all alone but the other walks have taught me to relax and breathe when I don’t know my way or if I feel uneasy about being by myself in a foreign land.

The Via Francigena is beautiful so far…even though it is only day one for me. The rolling Tuscan hills, the olive groves, the vineyards, the cypress trees and catching a whiff of jasmine every now and again. It’s really magical and I’m glad I am able to be present and in the moment. Plus, the body isn’t too mad at me (yet) for this long-distance walking routine again.

Today there was a bike race on the trail. It was fun to see the bikers wizzzzz by and shout Buongiorno & Buon Cammino! 🚴 Those hills must have been a killer on their legs though. It was hard enough to walk them.

I wasn’t able to get into the pilgrim hostel tonight…not sure why, because I heard it is not full. The lady operating the place is apparently “picky.” So I found a lovely B&B with a private room and shared bathroom for €30. It’s called L’Affittacamere Martelli Hostel in Ponte d’Arbia. It has air conditioning and a big kitchen. Sadly, there is no supermarket in this town so I didn’t cook. But I did eat the worst piece of pizza (shocking in Italy!) I’ve ever eaten in my life but don’t tell the locals. They might hang me in the square. 🤌 🍕

I give you permission to destroy your guidebook. If you’ve followed any of my other hikes, you’ll know that the first thing I do is start ripping the unnecessary pages out of the book. So last night, rip, rip, rip. This guidebook starts in Gran San Bernardo, 34 days worth of pages with maps and info that I won’t use. I’m all about keeping my bag light if I can. Minus the watercolor paints and extra book I’ve been carrying around. Priorities! But other than that, I try to keep it as minimal as possible. Also, I tear out the maps and info for the day’s walk and tuck them in my Fanny pack for easy access instead of trying to find the book in my bag every time. Pro tip.

PS: Please don’t send me hate mail. Nothing is forever in this world and hikers who camp in the wilderness use the pages as fire starters. 🏕️🔥