“The world reveals itself to those who travel on foot.” Werner Herzog
Greetings from Italy! 🇮🇹
After hiking four Caminos in Spain & Portugal to Santiago de Compostela, I decided I needed to hike in a different country. Hell, I might just walk the whole world but that’s for another post. Italy seemed fun and a good next step since I’ve spent so much time here and know a little (tiny) bit of the language. It will be good practice for me…I still have my dream of living here in the future…for part of the year anyway.
The routes to Santiago have become so overrun with people that I want to showcase another Camino, you know, give the people some options. So, I’m embarking on another one of the original Caminos, the Via Francigena, aka; The Road to Rome or The Way to the City of Saint Peter.
This route technically starts in Canterbury, England, and walks through France, Switzerland, and Italy, but my 90 days in the EU are about to run out so I thought I’d squeeze in a couple of weeks of hiking from Siena to Rome before departing for a new continent. I think it will only take 11-12 days according to my new guidebook and of I don’t take any off days to enjoy a town or two.
For those who are even more adventurous and have the time, they’ve expanded the route to the boot heel of Italy. Buon Cammino!
From what I’ve researched, this path is not as well marked, the accommodations are fewer and more expensive, and it’s not as well maintained as the routes in Spain…but it’s doable. I’m up for a good challenge. Plus, Pilgrims are walking into Rome and the Vatican every day. I’ve been following along on a few of the Facebook pages so I shall not be deterred!
I flew from Sevilla to Roma a few days ago and I’ve spent a couple nights in Siena preparing. Thanks to my best friend Squint and the birthday present she gave me last December, an Airbnb gift card, I had free accommodations. She knows me well and it’s the perfect gift for a world traveler.
Arriving in Siena was a bit of a wild voyage. I was in a taxi, plane, train and bus. Our train from Rome to Siena was late so I missed the connecting train in some tiny random town. Don’t worry, I made friends and we made the most of it. We had to wait an hour for a bus to come to get us and take us on the last leg of the journey into Siena. I was three hours late arriving at the Airbnb but luckily the hostess was kind and understanding…and waited for me. Whew. I left the hostel in Sevilla, Spain at 6:45 am and arrived at the house in Siena at 9:20 pm (same time zone). Very long day of travel. 🚕 ✈️ 🚊 🚎
Thankfully, I’ve been to Siena before so I knew my way around a little bit to pick up supplies quickly. I needed a pilgrim credential which I bought for €5 at Santa Maria Della Scala gift shop. I also needed a guidebook. This was a bit tougher to find. I went to four bookstores and could only find it in Italian or French. Italian was clearly my choice for this purchase (€18) and I feel I’m ready for the test of trying to read this darn thing (with the help of Google Translate). I just completed day 145 of my Italian Duolingo lessons but still, wish me luck.
There is a tourist information office new Piazza del Campo that also gives a stamp and will provide you with a general (not detailed) map and point you in the correct direction out of the city.
I met my first Italian Via Francigena pilgrim at the Termini train station in Rome. Lorenzo, works for Trenitalia and I needed a little help finding my train – they are doing a ton of construction – so as he walked me to the platform he told me that he has walked the trail from the tippy top of Italy to Rome (a few years ago) and about how the route almost walks past his front door. I’m not sure if that was an invitation to stop by for an espresso or not but he was tall, cute, and sweet so I just might. When in Rome, am I right?
I bought some new shoes while I was in Sevilla, Spain. I needed a little time to break them in. The tread was nearly gone from my other shoes and wouldn’t make it through another Camino even though they were in decent shape. Charlotte, from Casa de Océano in Tarifa was able to donate them for me to a homeless person she knew…glad they found a new home. These new shoes are men’s since the women’s sizes are not big enough for my American feet, and they are hideous (on a woman), with a capital H. They definitely look like men’s trail runners because they are but the good thing is they fit and I don’t care what they look like, I need good hiking shoes…fashion is an afterthought, please reference my fanny pack and the Blue Beast for any further proof.
Today, I knew it would be best to eat some pasta…wink, wink…you know, fuel up for my big hike. I mean, good health and strength is of the utmost importance. At the restaurant, my sweet waiter, Francesco, who is studying banking at the University in Siena, (where else would you study banking but in the city where it originated?) recommended a heavenly dish; I pici all’etrusca con ragù di Chianina e funghi porcini! Just take a look…delicious!
In exchange for his cuisine recommendation, I shared with him a tip for when he is visiting NYC in August. He said he loves boxing and wants to see a “real boxing gym.” I said, “Francesco, you have found the right woman. I used to promote boxing in Brooklyn and I know just the place, Gleason’s Gym, under the Manhattan Bridge in Brooklyn.” 🥊 He almost jumped for joy when I showed him some photos and gave him the address.
So, with a pilgrim credential, an Italian guidebook, new shoes, and a stomach full of carbs, I’m off tomorrow on the start of a new adventure.
My birthday happens to be the celebration day of Santa Lucia here in Italy, December 13th, so I bought a medal of her at the church…hopefully, she will help light my way. 🕯️🙏🥾🇮🇹❤️
Here are some resources if anyone is interested in hiking the Via Francigena.
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https://www.viefrancigene.org
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http://www.viafrancigena.com
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https://www.gronze.com
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www.booking.com
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App: Via Francigena
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Buon Cammino is the correct pronunciation and spelling of this pilgrimage while in Italy.
Also, several people sent me this article from the New York Times about long distance walks. The Via Francigena isn’t mentioned specifically, but many other lovely walks & places are, check it out here. Get outside if you can! 🥾
Goodnight and much love & gratitude from Italy! 🇮🇹
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Fun fact about Siena. On July 2 they will host the annual, Contrade = district horse races, in the city center, Piazza del Campo. Each district or neighborhood is represented by their symbol. I met a woman in a shop who was passionate about Tartuca…the turtle. She said it will definitely win this year. 🐢 I wasn’t about to argue with a passionate Italian woman who is going to place money on this race, but my Airbnb is in the Onda section of town…go Waves! 🌊
Proof I was there – timer selfie. 📸 A few minutes before I snapped this photo, I met a pilgrim, Daniel from Prague. 🇨🇿
I haven’t seen a traffic mirror in a while so here is a photo of my best friend, Squint, on a tour of a Dominos facility with her co-workers…hairnets, hard hats, and all! I love that she got these random dudes to participate in my shenanigans.
….and here is me in a Vespa Mirror Selfie (VMS). Gotta improvise. 🛵💨💨 This motorist needs to clean the mirror though, hello safety.
My friend’s have jokes. Gotta love them. But who knows, maybe I’ll do it! Anyone wanna go on a long walk with me?
