“Women need other women in their lives who think they are a big deal. No competition, no backhanded comments, no jealousy, just ‘I love you, I support you, and there is no one on Earth like you’ kind of energy.” Unknown
*These events took place in September 2025.*
*This post is very long, so if it is cut off, be sure to click “View Entire Message” at the end – then you may enjoy a photo collage of me stuffing my face with Italian lemon sorbet – you won’t want to miss it.*
As bittersweet as it is to see my 45-day, 630-mile hike on the Via Francigena come to an end, I’m absolutely over the moon – thrilled, excited, and so grateful – for the next adventure ahead, this time with two of my dearest friends.
For those of you who are new here, let me make a proper introduction. Meet Ingeborg: my fun-loving, adventurous Norwegian friend and travel companion. You’re going to love her – everyone does. 🩷
And for my loyal followers…she’s baaaack! Our little fiery Norwegian Viking has landed in Italy to help celebrate the grand finale of my Cammino…and probably cause a little ruckus with the Italians along the way.
Ciao, bella! 🤌
Everyone needs a friend like Inge. As I wrote in a message for her birthday, she is the most kind, outgoing, adventurous, pink-and-purple-loving, life of the party, fun, sparkly friend I have.
She pushes me to live bigger, laugh harder, and jump into every moment feet first without hesitation. She really brings out the best in me – and everyone around her. She is like magic in a bottle without the lid.
If you don’t have someone in your life who fits that description, find one fast. They are pure whimsy, and life is so much fuller, richer, and more fun when someone like that is in your orbit. ✨💖
We’ve packed a lifetime of adventures into the short two and a half years we’ve known each other. Together, we’ve traveled through three countries, climbing mountains, snorkeling in oceans, indulging in high tea at a fancy restaurant, sampling interesting – sometimes delicious and sometimes not so delicious – local cuisine, and zipping around on scooters, camels, trains, planes, buses, safari jeeps, and so many tuk-tuks I’ve completely lost count.
We’ve slept everywhere from hostels, hotels, apartments, and Airbnbs to camper vans, a houseboat, and even a tree house…along with a fat green frog who occupied the shower in the bathroom.
We once spent a week road-tripping around Norway in a camper van, cooking our meals and morning coffee over a tiny propane burner near the rear bumper, unwinding in saunas, and then cold-plunging straight into the fjords. And now, after this trip around Italy, we’ll have checked off two of the Seven Wonders of the World together – the Taj Mahal and the Colosseum.
Some of my absolute best, most fun (and yes, wild) adventures have been with her. And one day, when enough time has passed, I’ll finally write about that unforgettable run-in with the Sri Lankan mafia…and the part where we had to make a run for it because I couldn’t keep my mouth shut and went toe-to-toe with the big boss on the phone and then hung up on him (traveler tip: don’t do that – they really don’t like it). In my defense, I didn’t know he was a mob boss. My mistake.
Check out the archives to read about our previous adventures in Sri Lanka, India, and the time I visited her in Norway (click on the link associated with each country to read the first post of the series).
For our next adventure, we will be traversing Italy together for two weeks, joined by another dear friend from England who arrives in just a couple of days. Together, the three of us will be spending time in Rome, Florence, and Lucca…and I truly can’t wait.
Since neither of them has ever visited these cities, I’ll be serving as their trusted American-in-Italy tour guide. You can only imagine how disastrous that will look through Italian eyes, but thankfully, the Norwegian and the Brit won’t know the difference. 😂 I can already hear my Italian friends correcting me and throwing out the obligatory hand gestures in frustration. 🤌🤌🤌
Inge and I had about 48 hours to roam Rome before my other friend arrived. Side note: they don’t know each other – and they couldn’t be more different – so this should be interesting. Every trip needs a little drama, right?
Ingeborg’s flight landed late in the evening, and since we were staying in a charming Airbnb near the Vatican, we made that her first touristy stop of the trip after we finished dinner. And despite how many times I’ve visited the Vatican, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it at night.
Lordy, it is absolutely breathtaking when lit up against the night sky. It was quiet and peaceful, and not many people were around aside from a homeless man loudly voicing the very obvious injustice of his situation, juxtaposed against the Pope’s mansion.
Despite our late-night chatting and catching up after such a long hiatus, I woke up early the next morning – a habit from the Cammino. My phone buzzed a few minutes later with a text from Kathleen and Laura. They’d arrived at the Vatican yesterday (sadly, I didn’t get to see them), and their flight was leaving soon. They texted to say they were sorry we hadn’t gotten to say goodbye in person. Then Kathleen dropped the bomb: because of the Jubilee festivities, they hadn’t been able to get their Testimonium.
I gasped. This was Kathleen’s first Cammino…ever. She had walked over 400 km. I know, it’s only a piece of paper, but it is a really nice memento. Something had to be done. A seasoned pilgrim does not let this happen to a newbie. I was absolutely not going to let them leave the country without their certificates.
I asked what time their flight was. Not until noon. Perfect. Plenty of time. It was 8 A.M., and I told them to meet me near a specific entrance at the Vatican, and we would get them that dang Testimonium – come hell or high water, or the Pope’s blessing. A pilgrim never leaves another pilgrim behind…it’s basically a sacred code.
Ingeborg was still sleeping, so I quietly brushed my teeth, slipped into my shoes, and ran out the door and down the quiet streets – no bra, wild and crazy bed head, and still in my pajamas. No time for appearances. They had a flight to catch, and the clock was ticking.
We found each other at the entrance, and guess what? With a little maneuvering (and one very pushy American), we managed to get in and out. They got their Testimonium…and still made their flight to England. We even had time for a cup of coffee and big goodbye hugs. Mission accomplished. ✅
The smiles on their faces as they held their Testimoniums – like proud kids clutching a scribbled drawing destined for the front of the refrigerator door – were absolutely priceless.
Secretly, I felt like we were on an episode of The Amazing Race. Cue the music. I love a good challenge…it keeps my skills fresh and adds a little spice to life.
When I returned to the apartment, Inge was awake and a little confused about where I had disappeared to. After a quick shower and getting dressed, we were back out the door, ready for a full day of adventure. The Romans didn’t even know what hit them after this whirlwind!
We headed straight to Piazza Navona for lunch (yes, I know this is not the best food in town, and it’s outrageously overpriced, but the people watching and vibe are fantastic). The manager, whom I surprised by correctly identifying as Sicilian from his accent, rewarded us with free limoncello shots at noon – because of course, he did. It’s the Italian way. Salute!
We breezed through the chaotic crowds near the Pantheon and got our photos taken with a couple of vintage Fiats. We stopped for some Out. Of. This. World. Italian lemon sorbet at Don Nino. It’s pricey. €10 for sorbet – completely ridiculous, but when in Rome, eh? – and completely worth it in my taste bud opinion. Now, Don Nino is a chain and has absolutely terrible reviews on Google Maps, which honestly makes me think someone has been trying to sabotage them (mafia-style), because that sorbet was so good, they are clearly killing it in the gelato game, and the crew doesn’t like it. Don’t debate me. I said what I said.
We also tried a maritozzo at Don Nino – Rome’s most iconic pastry. It’s a brioche bun scented with orange zest, vanilla, and honey (or add any flavor you like), then filled with whipped cream. I will say, this place probably doesn’t serve the best maritozzo, so skip the pastry and go there for the lemon sorbet instead. The links above include a recipe for both if you’re feeling ambitious.
We strolled the streets, made friends with strangers, indulged our palates with good food, and peeked into churches. I took Ingeborg to my favorite church (not The Chapel, that’s obviously a fan favorite) in Rome, Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola – Church of Saint Ignatius, a destination of pilgrims. The ceiling in this place is incredible and almost mesmerizing, to the point of putting you in a trance. They’ve even installed a mirror so visitors can easily gaze upward and take photos.
My dream would be to lie for hours on a mattress on the floor and just stare at the ceiling while soaking in all the intricate details.
In the video, you can see that a portion of the ceiling is black – it was painted by Andrea Pozzo to be an optical illusion of a fake dome. Read more about it here.
We visited my favorite spot in Rome – the Trevi Fountain – twice. It was jammed packed with people during the day (awful, yet fascinating people watching), and I couldn’t resist going back at night when it’s beautifully lit and far more magical. I love being near flowing water, which I think is part of why this place has my heart, and the carvings are absolutely stunning.
I just wish, perhaps I should toss in a coin for this, that it wasn’t quite so darn touristy, but I understand why it is – it’s the perfect backdrop for a selfie. Oh! And during our night visit, we witnessed a marriage proposal. Those are always fun to see, and this is the perfect spot for romance.
Look at the crowd. Bananas. Absolutely bonkers how we all squeezed into that little corridor of the city.
A highlight of the day for me (since I’ve seen the touristy bits many times) was catching up with my new friend Alessia and her sweet little furball, Maya, over an aperitivo complete with Aperol Spritz, of course. I met Alessia and Maya in August when we walked a section or two of the Via Francigena together, along with Alessia’s dad, Alessandro. Click here to read the blog post about our walk together. Alessia is brilliant, beautiful, and oh so kind…she is her father’s daughter. She is one of those people who is very easy to connect with. We, including Ingeborg, talked for a couple of hours, and it only seemed like minutes.
Inge and I ended the day watching the sunset from the top of the Spanish Steps, listening to a busker strumming Bryan Adams songs on his guitar, supported by backup music. A few Americans – probably in their mid-20s – were standing nearby, and we struck up a conversation, only to discover they were Broadway performers on tour…and that we had friends in common back in the States.
Such a small world.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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Ingeborg always arrives with treats – Norwegian chocolate – and if you’ve never had their chocolate, you are seriously missing out. Give it a try. It gives Swiss chocolate a run for its money.
Don’t judge me and my ridiculousness – this Italian lemon sorbet at Don Nino was so tasty I couldn’t help myself. 🍋 Buonissimo! And Inge was like the paparazzi with her iPhone camera while laughing at me.
A close up of the maritozzo from Don Nino.
