“The lines are imaginary.”- me
I started my day by making sure I had a full water bottle. I was beyond annoyed when I ran out yesterday.
We (the folks in the hostel) ate breakfast as a group. Typical pilgrim fare, all you can eat/drink; bread, butter, jam, coffee, or tea for €5.
After breakfast, Sarah (with or without an “h,” I still don’t know) and I started out about the same time. We walked together for about seven minutes when I quickly realized that she is a fast hiker and I’m here to lollygag…or was it dilly-dally? Either way, this is me wishing her a Buon Cammino as we walked through some random farmer’s field – he was kind and gave us a friendly wave as we trespassed on his property. Isn’t it nice when people share?
The hike started off with a gorgeous walk through the woods. The sound of running water as a constant companion and a canopy of trees for shade.
If I had not just woken up, this would have been a good spot for a nap.
Bonus: I made another video. This one is “short-er” and is only 4 minutes and 16 seconds but it took me two hours to make…how does that work? I’m not sure I have the energy to make these daily for the next month. Maybe weekly. We shall see how it goes.
You can watch it on YouTube at this link. Special feature…all the fruit that is currently ripening in the area.
The trail twisted and turned for several miles in the thick trees until it opened up to this beautiful view. I stood there with my mouth wide open gawking at the beauty and the grandeur of it all when…BAM!
I got nailed in the face by a damn sprinkler (watch the video for my instant reaction). This isn’t my first rodeo. You’d think by now, after walking over 2,500 miles around the world, traipsing through strangers’ fields and backyards, I’d know to look out for cow pies and massive bouts of water being sprayed from giant super soaker squirt guns…but noooo. I still don’t pay attention. I was completely distracted by the morning light giving the mountains their good morning kiss.
Meet Olga (she has a cameo in the video as well). She was out cleaning her front stoop when I walked up. She wanted to chat, which always makes me a little nervous since my Italian vocabulary is so tiny, but she didn’t seem to mind. She did all the talking. From what I understood (not necessarily what she said), she is 86, and has a ton of aches and pains. She’s got a bad knee, back, shoulder pain that trickles down to her fingertips, and special insoles for her shoes. She even showed me the insoles. I was a little jealous, they looked comfy and would be helpful in my hiking shoes. But I have to give it to Olga, as an octogenarian who still gets out there to pull tiny weeds from the stones on her steps, she is in better shape than me.
She also told me to stop by the church because at noon (two hours from our visit), they’d be offering confession…for sinners like me. Kidding, she didn’t say that last part. Also, she said that I was to stop by the bar/cafe for a drink on my way out of town. She was sweet and let me snap a photo with her.
I really liked her gardening gloves. I wasn’t able to ask her where she got them with my limited vocab but she wore them well.
After I said arrivaderci to my new pal Olga, I stopped in at the cafe she suggested. I ran into an Italian couple I’ve crossed paths with a few times. We had a brief chat and then I waited to be served.
In 23 years of international traveling, I’ve never had what happened to me next.
I was denied service in the cafe.
I was shocked. I couldn’t believe it. It wasn’t what they said to me, it was what they wouldn’t say. They wouldn’t acknowledge me. I tried getting the waitress’s attention but she ignored me. Then I thought maybe I was supposed to order at the counter. It wasn’t until I stood
there for a few minutes and noticed that the wait staff would not look at me or acknowledge me when I tried to politely get their attention. When I realized they were helping other people who came in after me I felt like an idiot. I usually notice any odd behavior like that fairly quickly. I stood there like a fool and then turned around, grabbed my bag and calmly walked out the door.
I don’t know the reason why they wouldn’t serve me and I don’t want to assume things. I know that I wasn’t rude and I did not behave badly. I made an effort to speak in Italian. So, I know it wasn’t personal or about me. I know that when we travel outside our homeland we represent an ideology and stereotype much larger than ourselves – that is honestly out of our control. But I’ve been all over the world, and in 59 countries that has never once happened to me.
I’m kind of glad it did because it woke me up.
My one request, as someone who is an out-of-towner everywhere I go, please treat people with kindness even if they look different, speak another language, practice a different religion, or are from another place. The outside packaging might be different but the blood and organs are the same. The sounds may be different but the meaning and the emotions behind the words are the same. And the lines are imaginary folks. Truly. Nature doesn’t acknowledge them. Some guys decided to draw lines on the ground and fight over them and tell people where they can and can’t go. Same with religion, nobody knows what is real and true or who is right or wrong, it’s a personal belief. But kindness and acceptance are what matter, everywhere. So the next time someone from outside your area comes to visit, please welcome them. For me.
That entire experience left me feeling sad. Not for me. I was going to find my Coca-Cola somewhere else, but for the state of the world and how divided and disconnected we are. I’m sure the two ladies working in the cafe and I could have found some common ground if given a chance. They actually seemed quite lovely and they were very jovial with the locals.
But if I’ve learned anything about life, it’s that when something not so good happens, something great will usually follow closely behind.
I got off the trail in search of a Coca-Cola. I wanted some caffeine and sugar, dang it! I needed to put some pep back in my step to finish the day’s hike. I found a hotel/restaurant just down the road. The woman walking around the outside deck told me they were closed, so I should go back to the cafe that I just came from. When I told her that I couldn’t go back there and the reason why, she threw her hands in the air and loudly proclaimed, “People in this town are so close-minded! Sit, sit! I’m getting you a Coca-Cola!”
So I did just that. I took my shoes off (hiker tip, let your feet breathe on the breaks) and relaxed in the sun while I drank my sweet, bubbly Coca-Cola. I wasn’t about to let my day be ruined.
When she brought me the Coke can, I noticed the new design. They are already promoting the 2026 Winter Olympics in Milan! And if anything makes me smile it’s knowing that an event like the Olympics represents everyone. No matter your race, religion, or region. 💙💛❤️🖤💚
When I rejoined the trail, I ran into Elisabeth and Axelle from France. They are absolutely lovely. They’ve been friends since 1983. Since 2019, they meet every year for one week (minus one year because of a personal matter) to walk the VF – just the two of them. They originally started their journey just outside of Paris and anticipate walking into the Vatican in 2030.
They had been in my hostel the night before and it was good to see them again since today was their last day of walking. It gave me a chance to say a proper goodbye.
When I saw them, they had just been to the cafe and had a lovely experience – I was glad to hear that. I shared mine and one of the women replied, “You should feel lucky they ignored you.” She went on to share a story about one of her visits in America. “When I was in the US in the nineties, a woman told me to go back to my country and threatened to call the cops on me to check my paperwork.” Ouch, it was embossing to hear that, like a dagger to the heart. I hate that she had that experience in my home country. Thankfully, she can separate the people from the place. That’s how I feel about this situation. I love Italy and I’ve had so many wonderful experiences here that this one little incident will not overshadow all of the good times. And it is a good reminder that I want to be a positive representation of the US when I travel abroad.
The ladies and I walked and talked for the remainder of the hike into Aosta. They were both fascinating and have lived very interesting lives – around the world! Including in the US.
They even humored me with my traffic mirror selfie.
They asked me to take this photo of them walking into our final destination for the day and to mark the end of their 2025 week on the VF. It’s an adorable photo of both of them and captures them perfectly.
This was the last photo I snapped of them. The scenery was gorgeous but unfortunately, I forgot to Airdrop it to them before we parted ways. They said they would read the blog, so Elisabeth and Axelle, I hope you see this!
We parted ways and I headed to my accommodation which was an apartment owned by a few nuns from Mongolia. No, I’m not making that up. You read that correctly. They are really from Mongolia and they own a few apartment rentals for hikers and solo travelers. Basic but everything you need plus a hot shower with good water pressure. Hallelujah!
This is me and Lanto. We could barely communicate with each other but sometimes you don’t need words to understand each other. I was very tired when I arrived and she was very welcoming.
I added a tour of the apartment in the video. Remember, it’s a pilgrim life.
I almost ate the Carac I bought in Geneva with Ursula. I had it in my bag and forgot about it. So it would have been in hot to room temperature conditions for five days. Just before I took a bite, something made me feel like I should Google food poisoning and Carac. Whew, dodged a bullet on that one. I can’t imagine having food poisoning on the hike. Knock on wood for good luck.
Speaking of food. It was almost 3 pm and I still had not eaten since breakfast. Most everything was closed for serving food, so I went to the grocery store and got a few items to eat for dinner and a couple of canned meats for my backpack to eat on a break. I was so tired and didn’t have a kitchen to cook so I basically bought really weird items. Hiking makes me crave weird flavors.
I ate the tuna with veggies (it was surprisingly good), the cheese slices, half of the Russian salad, the powerade, and a few chips for salt and crunch. I packed the olives, salami, mackerel, and Coke in my bag for sacks.
I cannot lie. After all the “housekeeping” stuff was done, I sat down to work on the blog and after about an hour or so, I could not get up and off the bed. My legs are extremely (pardon my French) p*ssed off at me right now. I broke down. I had to take an ibuprofen. Getting off the toilet literally required prayers. Thank goodness the apartment is owned by a bunch of nuns – I think I moved higher up on the requested/answered list.
I think it’s going to be a few days until my body forgives me for dragging it on this walk in the woods. I’m extremely sore from all this self-inflicted pain but hopefully it subsides soon. Still no blisters though. 🙏
Hiker stuff:
Day 2: Echevennoz to Aosta, Italy
Mileage: 8.5 miles/13.7km
Difficulty: Medium
Accommodations: Affittacamere Foyer – a private apartment run by some lovely nuns from Mongolia. Phone reservations only. They speak French and Italian but not much English.
Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏
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For a minute I thought I was back in Nepal when I saw all the beautiful Tibetan prayer flags. 🩷
I did not notice this guy until I was next to him. He scared the living daylights out of me. I actually jumped.
Selfie stick…for the life of me I can not figure out a good angle with this thing. It requires so much concentration. Focus, smile, push the button and hold the stick or set a timer. I either look like a rabbit or a woodchuck. Or maybe a mix of both.
Laundry
