The less you have…the better the hike.

Here we go on another adventure together!

I’m saying goodbye to the US for a while and heading to Switzerland to hike another pilgrimage! 🥾This time I am walking the Via Francigena (VF) from Great St. Bernard Pass in Switzerland to the Vatican in Rome, Italy. Well, that’s the plan anyway. I hope to meet Pope Leo at the finish line. Anyone have a connection?

I have previously walked the VF from Siena to Rome (you can read about that hike in the archives – sadly, I did not get to meet Pope Francis), and this time I’m adding mileage…a lot of milage.

The Via Francigena (the ancient Road to Rome) is a historic pilgrimage route declared a European Cultural Route in 1994, that links the cathedral Canterbury, England with St. Peter’s Square at the Vatican in Rome. The trail winds through France and Switzerland and ultimately into Italy.

Side note and exciting news: Italy is investing millions into improving the VF (signage, trail maintenance, accommodations, etc.) and have filed paperwork for it to be considered a UNESCO Heritage Site. ❤️

“The proposed route includes the entire network of routes that make up the Via Francigena in Italy, from the Alpine passes (Great St Bernard Pass, Moncenisio, Monginevro) to Rome, with a total linear extension of about 1200km, through seven of the central northern Italian regions (Valle d’Aosta, Piedmont, Lombardy, Liguria, Emilia Romagna, Tuscany and Lazio).”

The VF’s origin is from the pilgrimage of Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, in 990. Its calculated walking distance is approximately 2,000km, 1,243 miles. I would love to walk the entire thing in one shot, but since Americans are only allowed in the EU for 90 days at a time without a visa, I’m dividing it up. This particular starting point, Great St. Bernard Pass, is approximately the halfway point to Rome, 1,000km (622 miles if I don’t get lost), and is the highest point, 2,469 m (8,100 ft), on the trail in the Pennine Alps.

The plan is to fly into Geneva, spend a couple of days in the city, and then take two trains and two buses to the top of the mountain, and stay at Great St. Bernard Hospice (monastery). Yes, I could walk to the top, but I’m not feeling it. I have nothing to prove at this point, and I’m hoping it’s all downhill from here. … It’s not but a girl can dream.

I’ve walked the El Camino de Santiago many times, so I’d love to highlight an alternative pilgrimage route for those seeking a quieter, less crowded experience.

People are often curious about what’s in my backpack, so to kick things off, here’s an itemized list (with links) of the gear I actually own and use. This isn’t sponsored; it’s the result of years of trial and error, and I genuinely love the setup I have now. I’ve invested a lot of cash in quality hiking gear over the years, and it’s lasted me well. If you look back at my older blog posts and photos, you’ll spot many of the same items still in use. I dated a guy who would say, “Cheap people pay twice, whether it’s in money, time, or discomfort.” And it’s true! I haven’t had to replace very many items.

Hopefully, these items will help and inform those of you who are new to or intimidated by long-distance hiking. Remember, buy what fits in your budget and what you feel most comfortable with. I learned a fantastic strategy for buying clothes from that same boyfriend. Whenever he tried on clothes, he never looked in the mirror until he was 100% certain it felt good on his body. He was hilarious at the clothing store. He’d put on the clothes, walk around the store, and even do stretches while wearing the clothes before ever checking himself out in the mirror. If it didn’t feel good to him, he would take it off without looking in the mirror and move on to the next item. No regrets. This is a good rule of thumb for buying any type of clothing, but especially hiking gear. It needs to feel comfortable and you need to be able to move in it; otherwise, it can make for a very uncomfortable journey.

So let’s get to it.

I’m a lifetime member at REI, so I shop there for most of my gear (I love the perks and dividends), but in KC, we have a new discount store, Sierra Trading Post, that has a lot of the same stuff for a fraction of the price. It’s fantastic! I haven’t tried their online store yet, but it looks like it has some really great stuff as well.

I’m repurposing an old blog post from when I walked the Portuguese Camino in 2023. My gear hasn’t changed much over the years, but the route of the hike will so I’ve added or substituted a couple of things.

  • PACKING LIST

    • Via Francigena guidebooks (two books are needed for the sections I’m planning to walk.)

    • Backpack (Osprey Talon 44 Liters) – this isn’t my exact bag since mine is so old, but it’s the new and improved model. I’ve had mine, Walter, since 2018 – the poor guy has tons of holes and rips and is patched up with red duct tape. If you purchase a backpack from an outdoors store like REI, they will usually help you find the correct size, show you how to wear it if you are new to hiking, and adjust it to fit. Also, brands like Osprey have a lifetime guarantee – full replacement if they cannot repair it, no matter how long you’ve had it. I can’t part with Walter just yet.

    • Oboz Hiking Shoes – I went to REI and was fitted for these shoes. All feet are different, so make sure you buy what fits your foot – and buy them at least a half size larger because your feet will swell on a hike like this. Keep reading to the very end to find out a tip I learned from an Italian shoe salesman in Rome.

    • Hiking sticks (I purchase these in Europe when I arrive – cheaper and airlines consider them a weapon so they must be checked)

    • 2 pairs of hiking shorts

    • 1 hiking skirt

    • 1 pair of hiking pants

    • 3 t-shirts

    • 1 tank top

    • 1 long-sleeve shirt with hood – UPF 50+ sun protection

    • 1 Bandanna (my favorite item)

    • 3 pairs of socks – pick your favorite

    • 3 quick dry underwear – these are amazing and make life easier when you don’t have access to a washer or dryer. You can thank me later when you don’t have to hang your underwear on the outside of your backpack to dry as you hike. I still have my original pairs from 2018 minus one that I left on a close line at Albergue El Paso in Vega de Valcarce, Spain. Great investment.

    • 2 sports bras

    • Swimsuit

    • Flip Flops

    • Poncho (Naturehike)

    • Sleep sheet (Vumos) – At the end of this post, read how I prevent bed bugs before I even start hiking.

    • Towel (Nabaiji) – purchased in Europe

    • Hiking Hat

    • Sunglasses

    • Small Toiletry Bag

    • Hairbrush (Wet)

    • Toothbrush – people ask me, “What is one thing that I miss when I hike?” Hands down, my electric toothbrush. The old-fashioned one just doesn’t get my teeth as clean.

    • Toothpaste

    • Deodorant

    • Sunscreen

    • Mascara – this is my favorite and my one little luxury.

    • Travel-size shampoo and conditioner

    • Water bottle

    • Headlamp

    • Cork ball to massage my feet after walking.

    • Knee brace sleeve – I have a bum knee that keeps acting up.

    • Herbal salve for my knee – I found this great product that is really meant for arthritis, but it works wonders on my achy knee… literally in minutes. It’s all natural, and Chelsea, the owner, is a hiker who travels the country and picks all the ingredients in nature for her products. I give it 5 Stars.

    • Wise Owl Outfitters Hammock – This is the first time EVER that I’m bringing a hammock. I found this awesome hammock on a super sale for $12.99 at Sierra Trading Post. It also has a 4.8 rating from over 50,000 reviews on Amazon. I love it. It weighs 1 lb.

  • Not pictured

    • Fanny pack – a must to keep everything important (wallet, passport, phone, etc. with you at all times)

    • iPhone

    • Selfie stick – don’t laugh, it’s my first one – we’ll see how it goes. Or if I even remember to use it.

    • A ‘leave behind” blue sweatshirt from Salvation Army – I need it for the first night in the mountains (brrrr), and I’ll leave it behind at the monastery as a donation. It’s going to be very hot this time of year (August) in Europe.

    • Blue Cube International Travel Adapter – the absolute best adapter I have found. (It is not a voltage converter.)

    • Small backpack (Sea to Summit) – This is a great item to carry around town instead of your big backpack…perfect for carrying groceries, laundry, and other stuff.

    • Journal/pen

    • Garmin Forerunner 45 watch

    • Vitamins

    • Nail clippers and a nail file

    • Gillette Mach3 Razor

    • Q Tips

    • Small scissors

    • Tweezers

    • Band-aids

    • iPhone and watch chargers

    • Hefty Slider Jumbo Storage Bags – these are perfect for packing clothes, keeping them dry, and are much lighter than packing cubes.

    • Pilgrim Passport – I’ll pick this up at the monastery on the first night. It is required to stay in pilgrim accommodations and to receive the testimonium at the Vatican (similar to the Compostella in Santiago on the El Camino).

    • Wallet

    • Passport

Happy Hiking!

Much love & gratitude. Namaste 🙏

Don’t forget to like and share this post, please. Thank you.

To see more photos and videos from my adventures, follow me on social media. Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, TikTok, and Threads or connect with me on LinkedIn. New to BlueSky so check it out!

Tip from an Italian shoe salesman in Rome: To add padding and extra comfort to any shoe (especially hiking shoes), remove the insoles and place a generic shoe pad in the shoe and place the original insole over it. It will add comfort without changing the integrity of the insole. It’s been a game changer for me.

Tip: How to prevent bed bugs from attacking you while you sleep. Purchase a bottle of Permethrin (like the one in the photo) and spray the outside of your bag, sleep sheet/bag, tent, hammock, etc., and it will prevent bedbugs and mosquitoes. This particular one will last up to six weeks. Make sure to read the instructions – spray it outside only, let it dry completely, and avoid contact with skin and eyes.

Emily

P.S. Any typos are complimentary.